M62TU Vanos Procedure

The following information is provided for reference purposes only; therefore, it should be used at your own risk.
In any event, Beisan Systems, LLC or its members shall not be held liable for incidental, consequential, or special loss or damages of any kind, regardless of how they are caused.

Introduction

M62TU VANOS maintenance

“Vanos” is BMW’s name for its variable valve timing units. Vanos units take on various shapes and design according to car year and model (engine model). The Vanos discussed here is BMW part # 11-36-1-438-694. It’s a single Vanos, meaning only the intake valve timing is varied. This Vanos unit is part of BMW 8-cylinder engine M62TU. Multiple car models used this engine between 1999 and 2005. It appears in the 1999–2003 5-series E39, 1999–2001 7-series E38, 1999–2003 X5 E53, and 2003–2005 Land Rover and Range Rover models.

This Vanos has been experiencing a failure. Diagnosis reveals that the failure is due to the deterioration of its seals. More specifically, the Vanos unit contains two critical seals: an O-ring located at the outer perimeter of the Vanos plastic housing, as well as a dynamic rod seal at the inner perimeter of the same housing.

The Vanos plastic housing outer perimeter O-ring uses Viton, which is the correct material. However, it gradually develops compression set (flattening) over time and use, leading to failure in its sealing function.

The Vanos plastic housing inner perimeter rod seal consists of a Teflon ring and a backing O-ring. Manufacturers produce the Teflon ring from pigment-modified (turquoise) Teflon. This slight variation of virgin Teflon is somewhat more resistant to wear and deformation than standard virgin Teflon. However, it is still highly susceptible to both issues. In fact, tests show that the Teflon ring loses a significant amount of material due to wear. As a result, this material loss causes the Teflon ring to lose its functional characteristics, ultimately leading to Vanos failure.

The manufacturer used Viton for the rod seal O-ring, which is the correct material for the application. Nevertheless, it still experiences notable compression set (flattening). Consequently, this compression set reduces the material fill within the seal cavity, which in turn further accelerates the Teflon ring’s wear and failure. Therefore, replacing the O-ring is appropriate when replacing the Teflon ring.

In the past, BMW addressed other Vanos failures. Even so, the company chose not to take corrective action in this case, stating: “No further development will be done.” The company continues to sell new Vanos units with the same pigment-modified Teflon ring. BMW also does not offer the Vanos rod seal as an individual replacement part. BMW does not provide the Vanos rod seal as a separate part.

Because this Vanos unit is sealed, you cannot access or replace the plastic housing’s outer perimeter O-ring. Fortunately , a reliable workaround exists: slightly modifying the Vanos eliminates the need for that O-ring. In this approach , the modification involves pressing the Vanos top lip onto the plastic housing. As a result , this action seats the housing on a shelf built into the Vanos wall. This seating , in turn, creates a functional oil seal. Effectively , it replicates the sealing function that was originally provided by the O-ring.

Selection of an Optimal Teflon Material for the Rod Seal Ring

You can replace the rod seal Teflon ring with a Teflon compound that offers very low friction and significantly better resistance to wear and deformation. This improvement is particularly important in this application, since the engine oil pressure is relatively low and the Vanos unit involves a large rotary movement. Therefore , a low friction coefficient becomes essential to ensure smooth operation.

Moreover , achieving both low friction and minimal wear requires the use of specialized Teflon materials. However , these high-performance compounds are not typically offered by standard seal suppliers. As a result , it may be necessary to work directly with material specialists to source the appropriate solution. A high-grade carbon-filled Teflon compound, engineered for such demanding conditions, meets this requirement. OEM i6 Vanos units already use this filler, and Beisan has also successfully adopted it for their replacement Teflon rings.

This specialized material fits the needs of the Vanos rod seal application. However, since the Teflon ring isn’t a standard part, manufacturers must produce it as a semi-custom component.

Viton material O-rings have variations in characteristics. Testing over time has shown that the Viton O-rings sourced by Beisan offer excellent compression set characteristics. As a result, the rod seal O-ring now uses this Viton material.

This Vanos has one rod seal comprised of a Teflon ring and O-ring. There are two Vanos units per engine, one for each engine head.

Beisan Systems Vanos Seals/O-Rings Repair Kit

A comprehensive Vanos seals and O-rings repair kit is available through Beisan Systems (bee-saan) at www.beisansystems.com/products. Beisan specifically designed this kit to address common wear issues in the Vanos unit. It includes a complete set of high-grade carbon Teflon rings and Viton O-rings to ensure optimal performance and durability.

In addition to the primary Vanos seals, the kit provides several extra O-rings that are essential during the repair process. These value-added components include the following: two O-rings for the secondary air pipe, two O-rings for the camshaft chain tensioners, and four O-rings for the mounting bolt shafts of the two engine covers. In addition , including these extra O-rings ensures that you have all the essential parts readily available. As a result , you can complete a thorough and effective Vanos seals repair without having to search for smaller—yet crucial—components separately. This way , everything you need is included, saving both time and effort.

Specialized Tooling for Vanos Repair

To further facilitate the Vanos repair process and simplify a potentially challenging step, Beisan Systems also offers a specialized Vanos press tool. This tool presses the Vanos lip, cleverly overcoming the common challenge of replacing the often inaccessible outer perimeter O-ring located in the plastic housing. By utilizing this press tool, installers can perform a more effective repair of the Vanos unit without having to endure the time-consuming and sometimes impossible task of reaching and replacing that specific O-ring. As a result , the repair becomes significantly more efficient and less likely to lead to complications. Therefore , this specialized tool offers a major advantage by simplifying what would otherwise be a difficult procedure.

Symptoms

Cold start Vanos rattle.
Warm idle Vanos clatter, similar to diesel engine.
Loss of low end torque/power and uneven power delivery.

Diagnosis

You can use the failure symptoms as reliable indicators for diagnosis. The cold start rattle typically appears first, followed by a warm idle clatter.

Vanos Components

Understanding the Vanos System Architecture

Furthermore , it’s important to understand the structure of the Vanos system, which controls variable valve timing and consists of a complex assembly of interconnected components. A key feature of the main Vanos unit is its construction: manufacturers typically friction-weld it into a single unit, incorporating an insert shaft. Due to this manufacturing method, accessing the internal components or assessing individual parts becomes extremely difficult. For this reason , the following section will provide a detailed description of the system’s components and a breakdown of the internal parts within the Vanos unit itself.

Oil Flow and Solenoid Operation within the Vanos

Oil flows into the Vanos system through a dedicated hole at the front of the engine head. A crucial check valve within this hole prevents any reverse oil leakage, ensuring the Vanos oil chambers remain pressurized when the engine is off. An oil distribution piece mounts directly over this oil feed hole at the front of the engine head. This distribution piece is responsible for routing oil to both the front and rear oil chambers of the Vanos, as well as managing oil drainage.

The system mounts a solenoid with integrated valves into the oil distribution piece and directly onto the oil feed check valve. This solenoid operates as a two-position system: it can either pressurize the Vanos front oil chamber while draining the rear oil chamber, or vice versa. A PWM (pulse width modulation) signal controls the solenoid’s operation, modulating it and its valves between two positions to allow precise control of oil flow. The oil distribution piece also sits over the camshaft, directing the oil paths through the camshaft itself. The camshaft houses the Vanos center shaft, which completes the routing of oil paths to their final destinations within the Vanos oil chambers. During timing adjustments, the Vanos center shaft rotates in conjunction with the camshaft, while the main body of the Vanos (which includes the sprockets) slides along the Vanos center shaft to effect the timing change.

Visualizing Vanos Components

To provide a clearer understanding of the internal workings and individual components of the Vanos unit, the following pictures will illustrate the Vanos in various states: first, cut open and completely disassembled, and then piecemeal reassembled to highlight and clarify its various parts.

The Vanos unit incorporates the intake camshaft sprockets as part of its design.
Internally, it features a cylinder with a polished inner wall, along with a center cylinder shaft. This shaft contains helical gears on its outer diameter and also has a polished surface on its inner diameter.
In addition, holes are machined into the cylinder shaft to provide an oil passage leading to the rear oil chamber of the Vanos.
Furthermore, a shelf located on the inner wall of the cylinder serves as a stop and seating position for the plastic housing — as illustrated in the three images below.

The piston, which features a central shaft with helical gears on both its inner and outer diameters, inserts onto the Vanos center cylinder shaft and engages with the corresponding helical gears. Around its outer perimeter, a steel ring sits snugly in a groove, acting as a dynamic seal. Furthermore, the Vanos body and piston together form an oil chamber at the rear of the piston, facilitating hydraulic actuation.

A plastic housing mounts at the front of the Vanos and features an O-ring and a Teflon ring seated in an inner-perimeter groove, while a small O-ring sits in an outer-perimeter groove. Together, the Vanos body, piston, and plastic housing form an oil chamber at the front of the piston, facilitating hydraulic operation.

A washer installs at the piston inner diameter and acts as a bearing surface for the shaft (next pictures) to rotate on.
The washer also acts as the piston shaft inner diameter dynamic seal.

A shaft with cup with helical gears on the cup inner side mounts through the center of the Vanos.
The cup helical gears mate with the piston outer helical gears.
The cup outer perimeter mates with the plastic housing O-ring and Teflon ring and seals the front oil chamber.

The shaft protrudes through the rear of the Vanos and mounts inside of the camshaft.
The shaft mounts the Vanos onto the intake camshaft while allowing the shaft and camshaft to rotate independently of the Vanos. Technicians use this for the timing adjustment.
Oil passages flow through the camshaft to the Vanos center shaft to the Vanos two oil chambers.

Repair Procedure

Parts, Tools, and Shop Supplies

BMW assigns the part number pattern xx-xx-x-xxx-xxx to its parts, which you can purchase from a BMW dealership.
Beisan Systems only provides the Vanos seals repair kit, extra Teflon ring, pick tools, and Vanos press tool.

M62TU Vanos seals repair kit (BS051) $60/each (www.beisansystems.com), M62TU pick tool kit (BS096) $5/each (www.beisansystems.com)
For first-time installation, we recommend also purchasing the M62TU Vanos Extra Teflon Ring (BS052) at $20 each (available at www.beisansystems.com).

The seals kit includes seals for both Vanos units, so only one kit is required.
It also incorporates 4 engine top cover bolt shaft O-rings, 2 secondary air pipe end O-rings, and 2 camshaft chain tensioner O-rings.
If you don’t use the extra Teflon ring, you may return it for a full refund within 60 days of purchase.

M62TU Vanos press tool (BS097) $50/each (www.beisansystems.com)

Valve Cover Gaskets and Grommets

Cylinder bank 1 valve cover gasket set (11-12-0-034-104): $40.38 each
Bank 2 valve cover gasket set (11-12-0-034-105): $40.38 each
6 x valve cover front bolt grommet (11-12-1-721-879): $1.03 each
16 x valve cover side bolt grommet (11-12-1-437-395): $0.98 each

Engine Cover and Timing Components

2 x engine top cover gasket (11-12-1-733-969): $13.25 each
Bank 1 upper timing cover gasket (11-14-1-741-532): $10.36 each
Bank 2 upper timing cover gasket (11-14-1-741-533): $10.36 each

Vanos and Solenoid Components

2 x solenoid gasket (11-14-1-435-023): $8.35 each
2 x solenoid check valve (11-12-1-706-921): $16.98 each
Bank 1 Vanos distribution piece gasket (11-36-1-705-578): $8.52 each
Bank 2 Vanos distribution piece gasket (11-36-1-705-579): $8.52 each

Camshaft and Crankshaft Components

4 x camshaft chain tensioner guide (11-31-1-435-028): $5.43 each
6 x camshaft seal ring (11-31-1-705-512): $5.70 each
Crankshaft chain tensioner (11-31-7-531-813): $79.38 each (not shown)

Miscellaneous Hardware

Coolant drain bolt washer (07-11-9-963-225): $0.09 each

Crankshaft tensioner rubber grommet (11-14-1-736-758): $2.56 each

Crankshaft chain tensioner washer (07-11-9-963-355): $0.46 each

Additional Parts – Model Year 1999

Bank 1 Vanos distribution piece (11-36-1-433-660): $57.72 each
Bank 2 Vanos distribution piece (11-36-1-433-664): $57.72 each

Initially, the production distribution piece often developed scoring from the camshaft seal rings. To address this, BMW introduced a Teflon coating for the distribution piece starting in model year 2000 (vehicles produced from September 1999 onward) to reduce wear . Therefore, model year 1999 vehicles require replacement of the original distribution pieces with the updated, Teflon-coated version to prevent scoring and improve longevity.
Note: Even if older, non-coated distribution pieces show no scoring, you should still replace them with the updated coated version.

Bank 1 Vanos distribution piece (11-36-1-433-660): $57.72 each

Basic Hand Tools

Gasket scraper
Putty knife (medium)
Hard hammer (plastic)
Thin feeler gauge (e.g., 0.005″) (not shown)

Precision Tools

Straight pick tool
90-degree pick tool
Razor knife
Pliers (medium)
Diagonal cutters (medium)

Wrenches & Screwdrivers

27mm combination wrench
10mm ratcheting wrench
Philips screwdriver (medium)
5 flathead screwdrivers: 1 wide-head short, 1 stubby, 2 medium, 1 small
Tack lifter
Small mirror
Magnet pickup tool

Sockets – 1/2″ Drive

27mm socket
24mm socket
19mm socket
3/8″ to 1/2″ socket adapter

Wrench – 3/8″ Drive

19mm deep socket
13mm socket
11mm socket
10mm deep socket
10mm socket
T55 Torx bit socket
E-10 Torx socket
6mm hex bit socket

Socket sets – 1/4″ Drive

10mm socket
8mm socket
6mm socket
T30 Torx bit socket

Ratchets & Extensions

1/2″, 3/8″, and 1/4″ standard ratchets
1/2″, 3/8″, and 1/4″ long-arm ratchets
3/8″ breaker bar (2 ft)
1/2″ breaker bar (2 ft)
Socket extensions:
- 1/2″ short
- 3/8″ short and medium
- 1/4″ medium

Torque Wrenches

3/8″ torque wrench (8 Nm / 6 ft-lb and 125 Nm / 92 ft-lb)
1/2″ torque wrench (25 Nm / 18.5 ft-lb and 136 Nm / 100 ft-lb)

Note: Torque wrenches must support left-hand threading.

Breaker Bar Tip
To remove Vanos and exhaust sprocket bolts, use a 2-foot minimum 3/8″ breaker bar. Avoid using a 1/2″ breaker bar with a 3/8″ to 1/2″ adapter, as it causes excess play and tilts the T55 Torx bit. A better solution: extend a 1.5 ft 3/8″ breaker bar using a 1 ft x 1″ gas pipe. Slide the pipe about halfway onto the bar and secure it with duct tape for stability (see picture).

BMW M62TU timing tools:

Use the intake and exhaust camshaft locking blocks for Bank 1 (11-2-441, 11-2-445).
For Bank 2, use the corresponding intake and exhaust camshaft locking blocks (11-2-442, 11-2-446).
The timing wheel positioning tool fits both Bank 1 and Bank 2 (11-6-451, 11-6-452).

Crankshaft locking pin, straight and 90 degree (11-2-300, 11-5-180)
2 x Camshaft chain tensioner locking clip (11-3-310)
Crankshaft chain tensioning tool, block and spindle (11-7-380, 11-4-230)
Solenoid socket (11-6-420 )
Vanos turning tool (11-6-440)

V8 mechanical fan removal tools
32mm combo wrench, BMW water pump pulley holder (11-5-050) $20/each
Handheld sledge hammer (3lb)

You can purchase a Baum Tools water pump pulley holder or a holder and 32mm wrench combo from El Paso Tool Store.
Go to El Paso Tool store and perform a “Store search” for “115050”. Check the “in titles & description” check box.
El Paso Tool store

Paper towels, water based cleaner (simple green 1:10), brake cleaner, spray lubricant, Grease (synthetic graphite), assembly oil (lubricant oil)
3Bond Drei Sealant (BS0SS) $19.90 (www.beisansystems.com) for gasket, 2 x parts plate, water cup, 3 ft bungee cord, 10mm thread diameter bolt, digital multimeter & alligator clip wires, flashlight, small hose clamp

Not shown: 3 small cloth towels, coolant receptacle

1 gallon BMW coolant, 1 gallon distilled water, 1 empty gallon container for mixing (old BMW coolant container)

Repair

Car engine must be cold to perform repair procedure.

Right and Left denotations are from car front at hood orientation.
Engine bank 1 head is on left and engine bank 2 head is on right.
Cylinders 1-4 are on bank 1 front to rear, and cylinders 5-8 are on bank 2 front to rear.

Start by removing the engine air intake.

Engine air intake removal

Next, take off the fan and shroud assembly.

Fan & shroud removal

Then, remove the cabin filter housing.

E39 cabin filter housing removal

Finally, detach the valve covers.

Disconnect the battery negative cable

Open the rear trunk lid and then the right-side fender cabin door (viewed from the trunk)

Loosen the battery negative cable mounting nut using a 10 mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension

Remove the negative cable clamp from the battery negative post and set it aside

Caution: Do not close the trunk lid completely. Once closed, the electronic latch won’t reopen it without power, and you’ll need the key to manually open it.

Note: Removing the negative cable is necessary because, in the next step, you’ll remove the positive cable at the engine bank 2 valve cover.

Eliminate bank 1 & 2 top cover. For each cover perform following.
Pry off and remove 2 center caps (flathead).
Expel 2 cover mounting bolts (10mm socket 3/8″ 3/8″ ratchet & extension, magnet pickup).
Note: Bolt shaft can remain in cover.
Discard engine cover.

Disconnect the electrical cable connectors for both bank 1 and bank 2 ignition coils. For each set of coils, perform the following. For every coil, pull up on the coil connector’s metal lock, then pull off the cable’s electrical connector.

Uninstall bank 1 & 2 ignition coils. For each set of coils perform following.
Get rid of 2 mounting nuts at each coil (10mm socket 3/8″ 3/8″ ratchet & extension, magnet pickup).
Pull out from coil studs, ground wires at coils 2 & 7 and ground straps at coils 3 & 6.
Pull up and remove all coils.
Note: Maintain coil/cylinder association for reinstallation. This is not necessary, but is good practice.

Disconnect the O2 sensor cable connectors for bank 1 and 2. For each O2 sensor, pull off the electrical cable connector from the top center of the electrical housing (black box).

Next, disconnect the camshaft position sensor cable connectors for bank 1 and 2. For each sensor, press in the wire clip and pull the connector off from the top front of the electrical housing.

Then, unplug the secondary air control solenoid electrical connector located at the top left center of the intake manifold. Press in the connector wire clip and pull it off.

Remove bank 1 & 2 electrical housing mounting nuts. For each electrical housing perform following.
Remove the mounting nuts from the top front and rear electrical housing studs using a 10 mm deep socket, a 3/8″ ratchet with extension, and a magnet pickup to retain the nuts.

Next, remove the secondary air solenoid mounting bracket from the Bank 1 electrical housing front stud.

Then, detach the vacuum accumulator mounting bracket from the Bank 2 electrical housing front stud.

Remove bank 1 & 2 fuel injector electrical connectors. For each set of fuel injectors perform following.
From front to rear injector consecutively pry out injector connector wire clip (straight pick) and pull up on electrical housing to dislodge connector.

Pull up on bank 1 & 2 electrical housings and tie together to keep up and off valve covers (bungee cord).

Caution: First, disconnect the battery negative cable from the battery in the trunk. This was first step in procedure.
Remove battery positive cable mounting nut at bank 2 valve cover cable box (19mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet).
Remove battery positive cable from cable box and valve cover and set to side (see second picture below).

First, you’ll need to remove the mounting bolts for both bank 1 and bank 2 valve covers. For each valve cover, perform the following steps: Take out the 11 valve cover mounting bolts, along with their washers and grommets. You’ll find 3 at the front and 4 on each side. Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension, and for tighter spots, a 10mm socket with a 1/4″ long-arm ratchet and a flathead. Make sure to loosen these bolts evenly in multiple passes.
Note: Front 3 bolts are different from 8 side bolts.

Valve Cover Removal

Next, carefully remove both bank 1 and bank 2 valve covers. Follow the necessary removal procedures for each.

To begin, insert a blade (such as a putty-knife) between the valve cover gasket and the engine head at all accessible front-end locations. This will help break the gasket’s bond. Then, pull up and remove the valve cover. If it’s resistant, reinsert the blade between the valve cover gasket and the engine head at any sticking points.

Note: If the valve cover remains stuck, double-check that all 11 mounting bolts have been removed. If it’s still resistant, pull up on the free front end of the cover to break the gasket’s bond entirely.

Gasket Management

Maintain the valve cover perimeter gasket with the cover. The perimeter gasket will likely stick at the rear half-moons due to the gasket sealant. Gently pull up on the gasket to release it.

Finally, remove the valve cover sparkplug well gasket from the engine head.

Note: The sparkplug well gasket might remain with the valve cover. If the gasket sticks to the engine head, carefully insert a blade (like a putty knife) between the gasket and the head from an edge. This helps remove the gasket without breaking brittle plasticized pieces.

Start by removing the camshaft oil rails for banks 1 and 2. For each set of oil rails, follow these steps:
First, loosen and remove the 5 mounting nuts for the intake and exhaust oil rails using a 10mm deep socket with a 3/8″ ratchet, a 10mm ratcheting wrench, or a magnet pickup tool.
Then, carefully take off the oil rails.
Note: Oil rails are symmetrical front to rear and top to bottom. Thus maintaining oil rail orientation is not necessary.

Locking crankshaft

If manual transmission, place transmission in neutral.
Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise until cylinder 1 (bank 1) intake and exhaust cams point to each other at ~45 degree angle (27mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).
Note: Turning crankshaft counter clockwise is acceptable.
Note: Intake camshaft will be rotated further clockwise due to Vanos advancement. Thus reference exhaust cam for 45 degree positioning.

First, inspect the TDC (top dead center) timing marks located on the engine timing cover and the crankshaft harmonic balancer at approximately the 11 o’clock position using a mirror.

Then, adjust the crankshaft pulley to align the TDC timing marks properly by using a 27 mm socket with a 1/2″ long-arm ratchet and a short extension.

Keep in mind that the angle of your view affects the alignment position; therefore, tilting your view to around the 11 o’clock position ensures the correct alignment perspective.
Note: Picture is not of M62TU engine, but M62TU marks will be very similar.

Raise front of car and place on jack stands (follow appropriate procedure; chock both sides of both rear wheels).

Remove large engine compartment shield underneath front of car.
Turn 3 mounting bolts at each side 1/2 turn to release lock (Philips).

Locate crankshaft lock hole and inspection hole at bottom rear of engine.

Pull off inspection hole cap if present.
Insert crankshaft lock pin into crankshaft lock hole. Pin will not likely fully insert.

First, inspect the position of the lock pin and the flywheel/drive plate lock hole through the inspection hole using a mirror and flashlight.

Next, adjust the crankshaft rotation position carefully to perfectly align the lock pin with the lock hole by using a 27 mm socket, a 1/2″ long-arm ratchet, and a short extension.

Then, fully insert the lock pin to secure the alignment.

Afterwards, proceed with draining the coolant.

Drain coolant from engine block.
Remove engine left side (front orientation) coolant drain bolt (13mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet).
Note: Drain bolt located on engine block between cyl 2 & 3.
Catch draining coolant in receptacle (coolant receptacle).

Remove and discard bolt crush washer.
Note: If washer not on bolt it is likely at hole or fallen in coolant receptacle.

Note: It is not necessary to drain coolant from engine right side. This does not affect repair and there is very little coolant to drain and thus is of no significance.

If radiator drain plug is present at radiator bottom right, drain radiator coolant form drain hole.
Turn radiator drain plug 1/4 turn and pull off from radiator.
Catch draining coolant in receptacle (coolant receptacle).

If radiator drain plug is not present at radiator bottom right, drain radiator coolant form radiator lower hose connector.
First, remove the radiator lower hose from the radiator.

Next, disconnect the temperature sensor cable connector by pressing in the connector locking wire clip and then pulling off the connector.

Then, pull out the hose locking wire clip using a small flathead screwdriver.

After that, wiggle and carefully pull the hose connector off the radiator.

Subsequently, rotate and lower the coolant expansion tank down, letting it hang from the hose.

At the same time, place the expansion tank overflow hose into a receptacle to catch draining coolant.

Then, remove the expansion tank cap to allow coolant to drain from the expansion tank, making sure to catch the coolant in the receptacle.

Finally, reinstall the expansion tank cap once the expansion tank has been emptied.

Next, install the engine left side coolant drain bolt.

Beforehand, place a new crush washer on the drain bolt.

Then, install the drain bolt using a 13 mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet.

After that, fully tighten the drain bolt to 25 Nm (18.5 ft-lb) by feel, still using the 13 mm socket and 3/8″ ratchet.

First, install the radiator drain plug.

Then, insert the drain plug into the radiator drain hole and turn it 1/4 turn using pliers to secure it in place.

First, bring up the expansion tank and overflow hose, and then carefully lay the expansion tank lower hose on the AC compressor pulley.

Meanwhile, maintain the expansion tank overflow hose elevated to prevent any loss of coolant.

Next, install the large engine compartment shield underneath the front of the car.

To do this, insert the shield’s front edge inside the front bumper.

Afterwards, align and insert the side bolts into their respective bolt holes.

Then, turn the three mounting bolts on each side 1/2 turn clockwise to secure the shield in place using a Phillips screwdriver.

Finally, lower the car from the jack stands, following the appropriate safety procedure.

Next step: Removal of engine front components.

First, to begin, remove the radiator upper hose from the radiator itself. Then, pull out the hose locking wire clip, using a small flathead screwdriver for leverage. After that, gently wiggle and pull the hose connector off the radiator.

Next, similarly, you’ll need to remove the other end of the radiator upper hose from the thermostat. Again, pull out the hose locking wire clip with a small flathead screwdriver. Once that’s done, wiggle and pull the hose connector off the thermostat.

Furthermore, if your setup includes it, remove the radiator upper hose from the alternator. As with the others, pull out its hose locking wire clip using a small flathead. Subsequently, wiggle and pull the hose connector off the alternator.

Finally, with all connections freed, you can now fully remove the radiator upper hose from the engine compartment.

Remove radiator lower hose from thermostat.
Pull out hose locking wire clip (small flathead).
Wiggle and pull hose connector off thermostat.

If not previously performed, remove radiator lower hose from radiator.
Remove temperature sensor cable connector. Press in connector locking wire clip and pull off connector.
Pull out hose locking wire clip (small flathead).
Wiggle and pull hose connector off radiator.

Remove radiator lower hose from engine compartment.

Remove secondary air blower hose and secondary air vacuum control hose from secondary air exhaust valve.
Press in blower hose circular locking clip at top and bottom and pull off hose.
Pull off vacuum hose.
Place blower hose to side.

Remove secondary air pipe left end mounting bolt (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & medium extension).
Note: Reposition expansion tank as necessary.

Remove secondary air pipe right end mounting bolt (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & medium extension).

Begin by removing the secondary air pipe center mounting bolt using a T30 Torx bit socket with a 1/4″ ratchet and extension.

Pull secondary air pipe right and left ends out of engine and remove pipe from engine compartment.

5 series

Remove fuel purge valve bracket mounting bolt (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Allow purge valve to lower and suspend from hoses.

7 series

Pull out hose/cable bracket mounting bolt just to left of bank 2 solenoid (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).

Remove hose bracket mounting bolt at middle bank 2 upper timing cover (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).

Remove hose bracket mounting bolt at oil filter housing (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).

Move fuel purge hose and alternator electrical cable down and away from bank 2 upper timing cover.

Start by removing the oil dipstick pipe clamp mounting bolt using a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension.

Next, proceed with the removal of the crankshaft chain tensioner.

The crankshaft chain tensioner can be removed from the engine’s lower left side using a 19mm deep socket with a 3/8″ long-arm ratchet.
Place towel under tensioner to catch draining oil (towels).
Discard tensioner crush washer.

Removal of Vanos solenoids

Eject bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid electrical cable connector. For each solenoid perform following.
Press in electrical cable connector wire clip and pull off connector.

Begin by removing the Vanos solenoid gasket mounting bolts for banks 1 and 2. For each solenoid, take off the top and bottom gasket mounting bolts using a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension.

Next, remove the Vanos solenoid gasket itself for both banks.
Pry gasket at top sides to initially move gasket and break gasket seize (flathead).
Remove gasket by pulling out alternatingly at gasket top and bottom from bolt mount hole (90 degree pick tool).

Loosen bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid. For each solenoid perform following.
Loosen (break seize) solenoid (32mm special deep socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet).
Note: Do not remove solenoid.

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid. For each solenoid perform following.
Place towel under solenoid to catch draining oil and unscrew and pull out solenoid (hands, towels).

Removal of upper timing covers.

Start by removing the upper timing cover mounting bolts for banks 1 and 2. For each timing cover, take off the three left and three right mounting bolts using a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension.
Bank 2 lower left mounting bolt requires a low profile tool for access (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Loosen bolts evenly in multiple passes.
Note: Bank 2 lower left mounting bolt cannot be removed due to access restriction and needs to be removed with cover.

Break bond of bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover gasket. For each timing cover perform following.
Insert blade (putty-knife) between timing cover gasket and engine head at cover top corner to break gasket bond.
Pull forward on timing cover while inserting blade to facilitate further insertion on blade.
Pull forward on timing cover to break all cover gasket bond.
Note: If timing cover cannot be moved, double check cover 6 mounting bolts have been removed.

Remove bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover. For each timing cover perform following.
Pull forward and up on timing cover to remove. Remove gasket with cover.
Note: Sealant bond at top and bottom rear of cover will be broken.
Note: Camshaft position sensor remains mounted on timing cover and is removed with cover.

Bank 1 & 2 with removed upper timing covers.

Locking of camshafts

Install bank 1 & 2 camshaft locking blocks. For each camshaft set perform following.
Note: If locking blocks are marked in German, E is intake and A is exhaust.
Place locking block set on intake and exhaust camshaft rear square ends.
Adjust each camshaft position as needed to align for locking block insertion (27mm open wrench).
Note: Each camshaft incorporates a hex to facilitate camshaft rotation.
Loosen and retighten locking blocks matting bolt as needed to facilitate block mounting (6mm hex bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet).
Note: Bank 1 intake camshaft will need to be rotated counter clockwise opposing a valve spring to properly position for locking block. This is due to valve spring load and Vanos timing advance.

Rock each camshaft slightly back and forth while pressing down and forward on locking block to fully seat and align block on head surface.
Verify camshaft rear squares inserted into locking blocks rear narrow slot.
Note: Camshafts ends extend to rear of camshaft rear squares. Thus camshaft rear squares will not fully seat to rear of blocks” rear slot.

Removal of Vanos units

During following component removal, maintain component to engine head association. This is not necessary but is good practice.

Remove bank 1 & 2 intake camshaft timing wheel. For each timing wheel perform following.
Counter hold intake camshaft and loosen timing wheel mounting nut; left hand thread (24mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ breaker bar, 27mm open wrench).
Note: Nut is left hand thread, thus unscrew by turning breaker bar from left to right (clockwise) (car front orientation).
Note: Intake camshaft is counter held by locking block. But do not rely on this alone as camshaft can be damaged. Further counter hold camshaft at camshaft hex (27mm open wrench).
Remove timing wheel and mounting nut.

Loosen bank 1 & 2 Vanos mounting bolt. For each Vanos perform following.
Counter hold intake camshaft and loosen Vanos mounting bolt; left hand thread (T55 torx bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ breaker bar, 27mm open wrench).
Note: The bolt has a left-hand thread, so unscrew it by turning the breaker bar from left to right (clockwise, car front orientation).
Because the intake camshaft is counter-held by a locking block, do not rely on this alone to prevent damage. Use an additional counter-hold at the camshaft hex with a 27mm open wrench.
Make sure the tool inserts fully into the Vanos bolt head (T55 Torx bit, 3/8″).
Do not remove Vanos mounting bolt at this time.

Loosen bank 1 & 2 exhaust sprocket mounting bolt. For each exhaust sprocket perform following.
Counter hold exhaust camshaft and loosen exhaust sprocket mounting bolt; left hand thread (T55 torx bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ breaker bar, 27mm open wrench).
The bolt has a left-hand thread, so unscrew it by turning the breaker bar from left to right (clockwise, car front orientation).
While the exhaust camshaft is counter-held by a locking block, do not rely on this alone as the camshaft can be damaged. Use an additional counter-hold at the camshaft hex with a 27mm open wrench.
Ensure the tool inserts fully into the sprocket bolt head (T55 Torx bit, 3/8″).

Do not remove exhaust sprocket mounting bolt at this time.

Lock bank 1 & 2 camshaft chain tensioner. For each camshaft chain tensioner perform following.
Compress chain tensioner and fully insert locking clip into locking holes.
Note: Bank 1 chain tensioner is compressed from below tensioner and bank 2 chain tensioner is compressed from above tensioner.
Note: If locking clip not fully inserting, remove clip and press in locking clip pins to make parallel, then reattempt insertion.

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos and exhaust sprocket mounting bolts. For each Vanos and exhaust sprocket perform following.
Unscrew and remove Vanos and exhaust sprocket mounting bolts; left hand thread (hand).
Do not remove Vanos and exhaust sprocket at this time.

Remove bank 1 & 2 exhaust sprocket and camshaft chain. For each exhaust sprocket and camshaft chain perform following.
Pull Vanos and exhaust sprocket forward and off camshafts.
Move exhaust sprocket closer to Vanos to loosen camshaft chain and remove chain from Vanos rear sprocket.
Reinstall Vanos onto intake camshaft.
Remove exhaust sprocket and camshaft timing chain.

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos. For each Vanos perform following.
Pull Vanos forward and off intake camshaft.
Remove crankshaft chain from Vanos sprocket. Remove Vanos.
Maneuver crankshaft chain past distribution piece and lay down to side of engine.

Caution: Do not remove Vanos center shaft from Vanos body. Shaft is balanced to Vanos body and must be marked before removal.

Cover up bank 1 & 2 crankshaft chain access slot. For each chain slot perform following.
Lay towel over chain slot (towels).
Note: Towel will prevent components from dropping in chain slot during following repair steps.

Removal of Vanos components

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos oil distribution piece mounting bolts. For each Vanos oil distribution piece perform following.
Loosen then remove distribution piece 5 mounting bolts (E-10 torx socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Note: Lower mounting bolt, just below solenoid hole, is longer and has washer.

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos oil distribution piece. For each Vanos oil distribution piece perform following.
Pull oil distribution piece from engine head.
If distribution piece resistant, pry distribution piece off head while hitting distribution piece cylinder (wide flathead, hard hammer).
Note: Distribution piece can be stuck on camshaft due to camshaft seal ring scoring on distribution piece cylinder. This can be seen once distribution piece is removed.

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos oil distribution piece gasket. For each Vanos oil distribution piece gasket perform following.
Pull off and remove oil distribution piece gasket.
Discard distribution piece gasket.

Remove bank 1 & 2 intake camshaft seal rings. For each intake camshaft perform following.
Pry off and remove 3 seal rings from camshaft from front to rear order. Perform following for each seal ring.
Rotate seal ring to position locking ends at top of camshaft.
Push in and up on seal ring from sides to push up seal ring ends out of camshaft seal grove.
Press down one seal ring end and pull up other seal ring end and disconnect end locking hooks.
Pry apart seal ring ends and pull seal ring off camshaft moving each side forward in alternating increments.
Remove and discard seal ring.

Remove bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid oil check valve. For each check valve perform following.
Screw removal tool into check valve (10mm thread diameter bolt).
Note: Check valve thread pitch is 1.0, but more standard 10mm 1.25 pitch bolt will thread some into check valve. This is sufficient to mount and remove check valve.
Pull off check valve from head (10mm thread diameter bolt).
Note: Check valve is mounted in head by check valve O-ring.
Unscrew installation tool from check valve and discard check valve.

Removal of camshaft chain tensioners

Begin by removing the camshaft chain tensioner mounting nuts for banks 1 and 2. For each chain tensioner, take off the two top mounting nuts using an 11mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension.

Remove bank 1 & 2 camshaft chain tensioner. For each chain tensioner perform following.
Pull up chain tensioner and insert pry tool under tensioner edge (putty knife).
Prey up on tensioner to release tensioner mount (putty knife).
Note: Tensioner mounted to engine head by O-ring.

Pull up and remove chain tensioner.

Rebuilding of camshaft tensioners

Perform following for each camshaft chain tensioner.

Following rebuild is of bank 2 camshaft chain tensioner. Bank 1 chain tensioner rebuild is very similar.

Compress chain tensioner and pull out locking clip.

Pull off chain tensioner guide from tensioner base.

Slide new chain tensioner guide on tensioner base. Press guide on until it locks into place.

Remove chain tensioner piston from tensioner.
If necessary, pull hard to remove piston.

If chain guide difficult to remove, pry open guide bracket tabs (flathead).

Pull off chain tensioner guide from tensioner piston.

Slide new chain tensioner guide on tensioner piston. Press guide on until it locks into place.

Insert chain tensioner piston in tensioner.

Remove old O-ring from tensioner.
Cut cross section of O-ring in groove (razor knife).
Note: Rocking of blade while pressing helps create cutting motion.

Install new O-ring on tensioner.
Place O-ring in groove on one end and stretch and drop O-ring opposite end in groove.
Lightly lubricate O-ring to ease tensioner installation (assembly oil).

Compress chain tensioner and fully insert locking clip into locking holes.
Note: If locking clip not fully inserting, remove clip and press in locking clip pins to make parallel, then reattempt insertion.

Replacement of Vanos seals

Perform following for each Vanos.

Marking of Vanos shaft to Vanos body

Vanos center shaft is balanced to Vanos body. Thus Vanos shaft must be marked to Vanos body before removal to facilitate reinsertion in same position.

Clean Vanos surfaces (brake cleaner & towels).
Note: Hold in Vanos center shaft while cleaning to prevent from falling out of Vanos.

Rotate Vanos center shaft fully clockwise to insert internal piston in Vanos body.
Note: Vanos piston has to be in a fixed position that can be replicated for shaft reinsertion.

Mark Vanos shaft and body to document rotational orientation of shaft to Vanos body (magic marker).
Mention: It is helpful for reference to place marks along one of shaft top holes (picture).
Note: Do not use Vanos plastic housing or plastic housing pins for reference as these can move.

Lift up and remove Vanos center shaft from Vanos body.
Shaft will need to rotate slightly clockwise to facilitate removal.

Note Vanos piston is fully inserted in Vanos. This was performed above by rotating Vanos shaft clockwise.

Removal of vanos seals

Following Vanos seals removal and installation is best performed at table while sitting.

If a large washer is present on the Vanos shaft, carefully pry it off the shaft using a combination pick. However, if the large washer is already located in the Vanos piston center, you can skip the next step.

Once the washer has been removed from the shaft (if applicable), firmly press it into the center of the Vanos piston with your fingers.

Pull up Vanos piston by prying at washer inside bottom (combination pick).
Vanos can also be turned upside down and jerked to move piston out of Vanos (hands).

During following seals removal, hold piston in top most position by holding up at center washer (finger).
Note: Piston outer helical (slanted) gears end half way down piston and piston diameter decreases at piston lower half. This decreased diameter facilitates space needed to access Vanos seals in upper plastic housing. Thus pulling piston up allows positioning piston smaller diameter at plastic housing seals cavity and allowing for seals access and removal.

Pry Vanos seal Teflon ring from Vanos plastic housing seal cavity (combination pick).
Note: If O-ring is also engaged, release and attempt prying less of seal to only engage Teflon ring.
Pull Teflon ring out and past piston and plastic housing (combination pick).
Fully remove Teflon ring from Vanos (combination pick, then fingers).

Pry Vanos seal O-ring from Vanos plastic housing seal cavity (combination pick).
Pull O-ring out and past piston and plastic housing (combination pick). Note: This will take some force.
Fully remove O-ring from Vanos (combination pick, then fingers).

Removed Vanos seals.
Note Teflon ring thin cross section.
Point out O-ring flat side and flat inner diameter.

Installation of Vanos seals

During following seals installation, hold piston in top most position by holding up at center washer (finger).
Mark: Piston outer helical (slanted) gears end half way down piston and piston diameter decreases at piston lower half. This decreased diameter facilitates space needed to insert new Vanos seals into upper plastic housing. Thus pulling piston up allows positioning piston smaller diameter at plastic housing seal cavity and allowing for access to seal cavity and seals installation.

In following step seal O-ring will be inserted into plastic housing seal cavity.
Above two pictures show empty seal cavity and then seal O-ring installed in seal cavity.

Note: Above pictures are taken with Vanos piston removed to allow for direct view. This cannot be performed without cutting Vanos open.

Place Vanos seal O-ring around Vanos piston. Insert O-ring into Vanos.
Press down on O-ring incrementally along its circumference to press O-ring past piston helical gears and into Vanos (90 degree pick) (picture).
Note: O-ring will drop below plastic housing seal cavity.
Continue Inserting O-ring until it has been inserted ~3/4 along piston circumference (picture).

Pull inserted O-ring up (combination pick) and press exposed O-ring into Vanos to insert inserted O-ring into plastic housing seal cavity.
Start O-ring insertion into seal cavity at center point of inserted O-ring.
Place the inserted O-ring into the seal cavity.

Next, begin installing the exposed O-ring into the Vanos from one side using a 90-degree pick, pressing gently to ensure the inserted portion seats properly in the seal cavity.

Finally, guide the remaining section of the exposed O-ring into the Vanos—it should slide into the seal cavity with the help of the 90-degree pick.

Check no O-ring part is seen along piston and thus all O-ring is in seal cavity.

If seal Teflon ring in cold environment, < 70F (21C), soak Teflon ring in warm water for 2+ minutes.
Remove and dry Teflon ring just before installation.

To start, place the Vanos seal Teflon ring around the Vanos piston. Next, gently insert one end of the Teflon ring into the Vanos unit, guiding it carefully to prevent stretching or damage.

You’ll find that this initial placement helps guide the rest of the ring into position.

Step-by-Step Process

In the following step, the Teflon ring will be inserted into the plastic housing seal cavity.

Required Techniques

The above pictures show two techniques needed to assure correct insertion of the Teflon ring. While inserting the Teflon ring into the Vanos unit, gently pull up on the center point of the inserted section and guide it into the seal cavity, seating it over the O-ring. A combination pick is recommended for this process.

Important Notes on Insertion

The Teflon ring will need to be bent slightly at the transition point from the exposed section to the inserted section in order to properly fit it into the seal cavity.
Once inserted, the proper seating of the Teflon ring over the O-ring can be verified by checking for any space between the top of the Teflon ring and the top of the seal cavity.
There should be no space visible between the Teflon ring top and the seal cavity top.

Visual Reference – Correct vs. Incorrect Seating

In the second picture (referenced above), the Teflon ring is not seated correctly over the O-ring, as evidenced by the space found between the Teflon ring top and the seal cavity top.
In the last picture, the Teflon ring is seated correctly , with no space observed between the Teflon ring top and the seal cavity top.

Important Information About Inspection

Please note that the above pictures were taken with the Vanos piston removed to allow for a direct view of the seal cavity. This level of visibility cannot be achieved without cutting the Vanos open during an actual repair or inspection.

While inserting Teflon ring into Vanos, pull up on inserted section at center point and insert into seal cavity and seat over O-ring (combination pick).
Note: Teflon ring will need to be bent some at transition point from exposed to inserted section to accomplish insertion into seal cavity.
Verify Teflon ring insertion and seating in seal cavity by checking for space between Teflon ring top and seal cavity top (combination pick). There should be no space between Teflon ring top and seal cavity top.
Repeat Teflon ring insertion as needed to assure Teflon ring insertion and seating in seal cavity.
Caution: Correct Teflon ring insertion and seating in seal cavity is critical to success of Teflon ring installation. If this step is performed incorrectly Teflon ring can be damaged in next step.

Insert all inserted Teflon ring into seal cavity while pressing incrementally on exposed Teflon ring.
Press in exposed Teflon ring until it notably bends at sides. This Teflon ring deformation is needed to keep Teflon ring from popping back out of Vanos.
Verify Teflon ring insertion and seating in seal cavity by checking for space between Teflon ring top and seal cavity top (combination pick). There should be no space between Teflon ring top and seal cavity top.

Press in and down on exposed Teflon ring at different locations (90 degree pick) to insert exposed Teflon ring to inside of plastic housing (picture).
Teflon ring will deform in process and multiple waves will develop in Teflon ring shape.

Note: If exposed Teflon ring cannot be easily inserted to inside of plastic housing, then inserted Teflon ring is not inserted and seated in seal cavity and procedure should be repeated.

If Teflon ring is damaged due to wrong insertion, it can be mostly rectified by mounting it on Vanos shaft sealing surface at cup rim (picture).
Heating Teflon ring (heat gun or hair dryer) and pressing in (90 degree pick) at center of damaged Teflon ring can further rectify damage.
Note: Damaged sides of Teflon ring are of no significance to Teflon ring function.

Press exposed Teflon ring in and down (90 degree pick). This allows Teflon ring bottom edge to go past O-ring and for Teflon ring to seat on O-ring in seal cavity.
Perform Teflon ring insertion from sides of unseated Teflon ring. This allows a progression of Teflon ring seating on O-ring in seal cavity.
Last section of exposed Teflon ring will insert in one piece.

Last Inserted section of Teflon ring will have waves and wrinkled form.

Press protruding Teflon ring waves into seal cavity to stretch Teflon ring and return to original shape (90 degree pick).
Preform pressing at multiple locations multiple times.
Once Teflon ring waves dampen, begin to smooth Teflon ring by pressing along wrinkled section from end to end (90 degree pick).
Continue to press along Teflon ring wrinkled section until much of wrinkles are smoothed. Moderate force is needed at end of smoothing process for effective results.
Note: It is not necessary to fully smooth Teflon ring surface. This will occur once Teflon ring is exposed to engine temperature and Vanos is exercised.

Check that all Teflon ring is inserted in seal cavity (90 degree pick).

Press Vanos piston fully into Vanos.
Apply lubricant generously along top of Teflon ring (assembly oil).

Insert Vanos shaft into Vanos.
Adjust shaft as needed to facilitate helical gear matting.
Insert shaft until resistance is met (picture).

Turn Vanos upside down on table.

Press straight down on Vanos body to fully insert Vanos shaft into Vanos (hands/arms). Resistance will be encountered.
If shaft is resistant to insertion, remove shaft and repeat Teflon ring smoothing and oiling, then reattempt shaft insertion.

Turn Vanos right side up.
Note full insertion of Vanos shaft into Vanos (picture).

Rotate Vanos shaft in Vanos to check normal movement of Vanos.
Shaft will be difficult to rotate. This will ease as Teflon ring polishes and O-ring compresses during normal operation.

Remove Vanos shaft from Vanos by pressing out from rear of Vanos.
Check Teflon ring is in seal cavity (90 degree pick).

Pressing of Vanos lip

During following procedure Vanos lip will be pressed down onto Vanos plastic housing to fully seat plastic housing bottom onto Vanos wall shelf below plastic housing. Seating of plastic housing creates functional oil seal between plastic housing and shelf. This seal circumvents function of plastic housing failing outer O-ring and thus need to replace it, which is not practical.

Press Vanos piston fully into Vanos.
Vanos center washer can be present or removed from Vanos during following procedure. If present, washer should be fully pressed onto Vanos and should not protrude past piston.

If present, clean oil sludge from Vanos plastic housing (brake cleaner & towels).

As needed clean press tool and remove previous alignment marks from press bolt and press washer (brake cleaner & towels).

Press down plastic housing into Vanos at multiple locations (medium flathead).
Plastic housing will seat on Vanos wall shelf below housing and ~.9mm space will be present between Vanos lip and plastic housing (picture).

In following steps press tool press cap will be pressed onto Vanos lip to press lip down onto plastic housing. It is useful to understand press cap inner side design which facilitates this press function.
A press cap wall functions to support Vanos wall top to keep it from collapsing to outside when lip is pressed. A wall initial 2mm barrel chamfer allows initial alignment and seating of press cap on Vanos.

Indentation of press cap along perimeter allows space for Vanos wall to insert into indentation and not be pressed. Only inner edge of Vanos lip is pressed. This allows best leverage and thus easiest press.
Three holes in press cap allow Vanos test pins to insert into holes and avoid being pressed down. Holes outer edge aligns with pins outer edge. Holes cannot be aligned further out as press shelf at pins would be removed.
An inner indentation prevents press cap from pressing against Vanos center piston

Bend Vanos three test pins to Vanos inboard side by ~2mm at pin top to allow pin insertion into press cap holes and prevent being pressed down.
Rest tool (press bolt head) on Vanos lip and press against pin to bend.

Place Vanos with a test pin directly facing you.
Orient press cap with flats to side and pin hole without flat facing you.
Place press cap on top of Vanos with a pin hole directly aligned with test pin and remainder of press cap aligned with Vanos.

With press cap aligned with test pin and Vanos, install press cap onto Vanos.
Check and align press cap on Vanos so three test pins are inserted and roughly centered in pin holes.

Press press cap down onto Vanos wall. Tilt press cap as needed to align and insert.
Full insertion and alignment is not necessary.

Open vise wide enough to insert Vanos press cap.

Install press cap and Vanos upside down into vise.
Rest press cap flat on vise fixed jaw top and press cap against jaw.
Close vise to allow moving jaw to insert under press cap flat and lay press cap flat on top of jaw.

Center press cap in vise jaws and strongly tighten vise.

Insert press washer into Vanos rear hole and rest on Vanos.

Apply grease to press bolt lower 2/3 threads and head flange bottom (graphite grease).
Note: Applying grease to bolt is critical for proper function and longevity of press tool.

Insert press bolt into press washer center hole.

Press down and tighten press bolt to insert into press cap center threaded hole (27mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet).
Fully tighten bolt (27mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet).
Note: Bolt can be difficult to thread as press cap can be misaligned. As bolt fully tightens press cap will fully insert onto Vanos and become aligned.

Mark press washer and Vanos to document rotational position of press washer on Vanos (magic marker).
Marking will be used to reinstall press washer on Vanos at same position if second, further press, is necessary.

Mark press cap and Vanos to document rotational position of press cap on Vanos (magic marker).
Marking will be used to reinstall press cap on Vanos at same position if second, further press, is necessary.

Tighten press bolt to 136 Nm (100 ft-lb) (27mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ torque wrench).
Note: Counter hold Vanos at socket (hand).
Caution: As bolt tightens turn bolt slowly to avoid overshooting torque value.
If vise begins to swivel, loosen vise swivel and allow vise to rotate to swivel end position.

Clean grease from press bolt base and press washer (brake cleaner & towels).
Mark press bolt and press washer at a press bolt hex edge (magic marker).
Note: Be sure to mark bolt head top as side mark can be scraped.

Tighten press bolt a further full turn (27mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ breaker bar).
Note: Counter hold Vanos at socket (hand).
If vise begins to swivel, loosen vise swivel and allow vise to rotate to swivel end position.
Stop bolt tightening when bolt and washer alignment marks align again. Precise alignment is not necessary and slight under and over turning is acceptable.
Note: Great force is needed to accomplish press, thus minimum 24″ breaker bar is needed.

Warning: Once press begins it must be completed. Otherwise if tool is removed it will be difficult to assess how much further press is needed.

Loosen press bolt (27mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ breaker bar).
Note: Counter hold Vanos at socket (hand).
If vise begins to swivel, loosen vise swivel and allow vise to rotate to swivel end position.

Unthread press bolt and remove press bolt and press washer from Vanos (hand).
Note: If press washer difficult to remove, go to next step of removing Vanos from vise and hit washer through press cap hole to dislodge (3/8″ medium extension).

Loosen vise and remove Vanos and press cap from vise.

Thread press bolt into press cap form Vanos rear (hand).

With Vanos right side up, hold Vanos from large sprocket at each side and repeatedly hit press bolt head onto vise anvil until press cap removes from Vanos.
Note: Strong hitting will be needed to remove press cap from Vanos.

Unthread press bolt from press cap and remove press bolt and press cap from Vanos.

Inspect Vanos lip in reference to Vanos plastic housing. Vanos lip should be pressed against Vanos plastic housing.

Insert thinnest available feeler gauge to assess any remaining gap between Vanos lip and plastic housing. There should be none.

Turn Vanos to its side and attempt to rotate plastic housing from test pin (hand & pliers). There should be no movement.

Second Vanos press

If gap is found between Vanos lip and plastic housing, or if plastic housing rotates, a second further press is necessary.
Reinstall press tool on Vanos as before but use marks to align press cap and press washer to Vanos at same rotational position as before.

Tighten press bolt until bolt and press washer marks align, then further tighten bolt by ~5mm (1/4″). This should fully press Vanos lip.
Remove press tool as before and check Vanos lip and plastic housing rotation as before.
Please contact Beisan Systems to report this situation and result.

Clean press tool and remove alignment marks (brake cleaner & towels).

Alignment of Vanos shaft to Vanos body

Remove Vanos shaft from Vanos body.
Press Vanos piston fully into Vanos.
If not already present, install washer in Vanos piston center.

Insert Vanos shaft in Vanos body and orient alignment mark on shaft to left of Vanos body alignment mark.

Insert Vanos shaft fully into Vanos body.
Turn over Vanos and press on table as before to ease installation.

Vanos shaft alignment mark should roughly align with Vanos body alignment mark. If marks do not align, remove Vanos shaft and reattempt alignment and insertion.

Rotate Vanos shaft in Vanos to check normal movement of Vanos.
Shaft will be difficult to rotate. This will ease as Teflon ring polishes and O-ring compresses during normal operation.

Cleaning of parts

Note: When cleaning parts, spray cleaning compound on towel then wipe component with towel. Components can also be placed in a small container and sprayed with cleaning compound then individually wiped with towel.

Remove and discard valve cover bolt grommets. Cut off valve cover front 3 bolt grommets (diagonal cutters).

Use brake cleaner and towels to clean all mounting bolts, nuts, and washers.
Next, clean the heads’ mating surfaces, including the spark plug wells, valve cover perimeter, camshaft bearing cap studs, timing cover perimeter, tensioner mount and studs, and distribution piece.
Pay special attention to the tensioners’ mating surfaces, ensuring they are thoroughly cleaned.
Also, clean the ground straps on the coils and the coil harness ground wire ends.
Make sure the coil mounting hole surfaces are free of dirt and debris.
Finally, clean the battery positive cable mounting end and the mounting post on the bank 2 valve cover.

Remove valve cover gaskets and top cover gaskets from valve covers.
Clean valve cover mating surfaces; inner gasket grooves, bolt access holes, coil mounting studs, better positive cable mounting stud (brake cleaner & towels).

Remove upper timing cover gaskets from upper timing covers.
Clean timing cover mating surfaces; inner gasket grooves, bolt access holes (brake cleaner & towels).

Installation of camshaft chain tensioners

To begin, install both bank 1 and bank 2 camshaft chain tensioners. For each chain tensioner, follow these steps carefully:

First, insert the tensioner onto its mounting studs. Then, press down firmly on the tensioner to ensure it’s fully seated. Next, install the two mounting nuts using an 11mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension. Finally, fully tighten the nuts to 14 Nm (10.5 ft-lb), using an 11mm socket with a 3/8″ torque wrench and extension.

Make sure to tighten the nuts evenly in multiple passes. It’s also important to verify a single pass with both nuts fully tightened to ensure proper seating.

Installation of Vanos components

Install bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid oil check valve. For each head perform following.
Screw installation tool in new check valve (10mm thread diameter bolt).
Note: Check valve thread pitch is 1.0, but more standard 10mm 1.25 pitch bolt will partially thread into check valve. This is sufficient to mount and install check valve.
Fully press check valve into head at bottom of distribution piece gasket outline (10mm thread diameter bolt).
Note: Check valve is mounted in head by check valve O-ring.
Unscrew installation tool from check valve.

Install bank 1 & 2 intake camshaft seal rings. For each intake camshaft perform following.
Install 3 seal rings on camshaft from rear to front order. Perform following for each seal ring.
Pry apart new seal ring ends and push seal ring on camshaft moving each side in alternating increments until seal ring is positioned in seal groove.

Push in and up on seal ring from sides to push up seal ring ends out of camshaft seal grove. Press one seal ring end down and under other seal ring end and engage seal ring end hooks.
Rotate seal ring to position locking ends at top of camshaft and press down into seal groove. Note: This is to prevent seal ring ends from protruding from seal groove and be disconnected when installing oil distribution piece.
Lightly lubricate seal rings to ease distribution piece installation (assembly oil).

Install bank 1 & 2 Vanos oil distribution piece gasket. For each distribution piece gasket perform following.
Press new gasket top against head and up into camshaft housing groove.
Insert gasket onto Vanos check valve and press onto head to fully install.
Note: gasket top tab printed number faces front (pictures).
Verify gasket bolt holes fully align with head bolt holes.

Install bank 1 & 2 Vanos oil distribution piece. For each Vanos oil distribution piece perform following.
Lightly lubricate distribution piece cylinder to ease installation.
Press oil distribution piece onto camshaft and engine head.
Alternatingly tilt in top and bottom of distribution piece to insert over camshaft seals. Rotate distribution piece to avoid obstacles.
Fully press distribution piece against engine head.
Rotate distribution piece to align bolt holes with engine head bolt holes.

Install bank 1 & 2 vanos oil distribution piece mounting bolts. For each Vanos oil distribution piece perform following.
Install distribution piece 5 mounting bolts (E-10 torx socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Note: Lower mounting bolt, just below solenoid hole, is longer and has washer.
Fully tighten, 10 Nm (7.5 ft-lb) (E-10 torx socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench & extension).
Tighten bolts evenly in multiple passes. Verify one pass with all bolts fully tightened.
Note: Gasket will compress as bolts are tightened.

Remove towels from chain slot at bank 1 & 2.

Installation of Vanos units and exhaust sprockets

Install bank 1 & 2 Vanos. For each Vanos perform following.
Bring up crankshaft chain and maneuver past distribution piece.
Install crankshaft chain onto Vanos front sprocket.
Mount Vanos onto intake camshaft.
Note: There is no relative orientation of Vanos and crankshaft chain.

Install bank 1 & 2 exhaust sprocket and camshaft chain. For each exhaust sprocket and camshaft chain perform following.
Mount camshaft chain onto exhaust sprocket.
Note: Exhaust sprocket rear has larger diameter oil mark circle than front.
Pull Vanos forward and off intake camshaft.
Install camshaft chain onto Vanos rear sprocket.
Mount Vanos and exhaust sprocket onto intake and exhaust camshafts.
Note: There is no relative orientation of Vanos, exhaust sprocket, and camshaft chain.

Install bank 1 & 2 Vanos and exhaust sprocket mounting bolts. For each Vanos and exhaust sprocket perform following.
Install Vanos and exhaust sprocket mounting bolts; left hand thread (hand).
Tighten then slightly loosen (1/8 turn) both bolts; left hand thread (T55 torx bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet).
Note: Tightening bolts seats Vanos and exhaust sprocket.
Note: Loosening bolts allows free rotation of Vanos and exhaust sprocket which is needed for timing setup.

Setting of engine timing

Unlock bank 1 & 2 camshaft chain tensioner. For each camshaft chain tensioner perform following.
Compress chain tensioner and pull out locking clip from locking holes.
Note: Bank 1 chain tensioner is compressed from below tensioner and bank 2 chain tensioner is compressed from above tensioner.

Install crankshaft chain tensioning tool.
Thread tool spindle nut fully into tool block.
Position tool block on bank 1 head below exhaust sprocket (picture).
Mount tool block with upper timing cover long bolt at top and short bolt at bottom. Align block with head to facilitate bolt insertion.
Lightly tighten bolts (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ extension).

Tighten tensioner tool spindle to press against chain rail guide and tension crankshaft chain (8mm socket 1/4″ / fingers).
Align tool spindle and rail guide as needed.
Verify crankshaft chain is positioned on chain rail guides at bank 1 & 2.
Tighten until difficult to further tighten (8mm socket 1/4″ / fingers). Do not over tighten.
Note: Amount of chain tightening and spindle protrusion from tool block will depend on chain age and stretch. Chain in picture is old and stretched.

Verify crankshaft chain is tight at all segments.
If chain is loose at a segment this is likely due to a tightly mounted Vanos or exhaust sprocket. Slightly loosen Vanos or exhaust sprocket mounting bolt to allow rotation and release of chain bind.
Further tension chain as needed.

Check and realign camshafts and camshaft locking blocks as necessary.
Rock each camshaft slightly back and forth while pressing down and forward on locking block to fully seat and align block on head surface (27mm open wrench).
Loosen and retighten locking blocks matting bolt as needed to facilitate block mounting (6mm hex bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet).

Fully retard bank 1 & 2 Vanos timing. For each Vanos perform following.
Connect ohm meter positive lead to one of Vanos test pins and negative lead to intake camshaft first bearing cap stud (digital multimeter & alligator clip wires).
Turn on ohm meter (digital multimeter on ohm setting).
Install Vanos turning tool onto Vanos center shaft. Insert tool pins into Vanos shaft pin holes.
Turn Vanos shaft counter clockwise until end adjustment position (Vanos turning tool & 24mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet).

Caution: Do not place notable pressure on Vanos turning tool as pins will break.
Ohm meter will display 0 ohm when Vanos at fully retarded position.
The Vanos internal piston will connect with the Vanos test pins when fully retarded, causing a short reading (0 ohm).
Releasing ratchet pressure can change the ohm reading to an open circuit (infinite ohm), which is normal.
Often, a short won’t be achieved, and a 0 ohm reading may not occur—this is also normal.
After testing, remove the ohm meter and wires.

Locking of engine timing

Perform following two steps in two passes. First pass lightly tighten Vanos and exhaust sprocket mounting bolts to fix timing. Second pass fully tighten Vanos and exhaust sprocket mounting bolts.
Note: Mounting bolt tightening torque values are high and set timing can be disturbed in tightening process. Two pass tightening allows fixing set timing at first pass then fully tightening at second when timing can’t be disturbed.

Tighten bank 1 & 2 Vanos mounting bolt. For each Vanos perform following.
Tighten bank 2 then bank 1. Note: This assures any chain looseness it drawn to chain tensioner.
Counter hold intake camshaft and fully tighten Vanos mounting bolt, first pass 20 Nm (15 ft-lb), second pass 110 Nm (81 ft-lb); left hand thread (T55 torx bit socket 3/8″ w/ 1/2″ to 3/8″ socket adapter / 1/2″ torque wrench, 27mm open wrench).
Note: Verify tool inserts fully into Vanos bolt head (T55 torx bit 3/8″).
Note: Intake camshaft is counter held by locking block. But do not rely on this alone as camshaft can be damaged. Further counter hold camshaft at camshaft hex.

Check and realign camshafts and camshaft locking blocks as necessary.

Tighten bank 1 & 2 exhaust sprocket mounting bolt. For each exhaust sprocket perform following.
Tighten bank 2 then bank 1. Note: This assures any chain looseness it drawn to chain tensioner.
Counter hold exhaust camshaft and fully tighten exhaust sprocket mounting bolt, first pass 20 Nm (15 ft-lb), second pass 125 Nm (92 ft-lb); left hand thread (T55 torx bit socket 3/8″ w/ 1/2″ to 3/8″ socket adapter / 1/2″ torque wrench, 27mm open wrench).
Note: Verify tool inserts fully into sprocket bolt head (T55 torx bit 3/8″).
Note: Exhaust camshaft is counter held by locking block. But do not rely on this alone as camshaft can be damaged. Further counter hold camshaft at camshaft hex.

Check and realign camshafts and camshaft locking blocks as necessary.
Check if bank 1 & 2 exhaust camshaft locking block is lifted from engine head.
If exhaust camshaft locking block is lifted more than 1mm from engine head then loosen exhaust camshaft bolt and repeat above procedure for retightening bolt.
Rotate bank 1 & 2 intake camshaft counter clockwise as far as possible and note if locking block is lifted from engine head.
If intake locking block is lifted more than 1mm from engine head then loosen Vanos mounting bolt and repeat above procedure for retarding Vanos and retightening bolt.

Mount bank 1 & 2 intake camshaft timing wheel. For each timing wheel perform following.
Mount timing wheel on Vanos mounting bolt and install mounting nut; left hand thread (hand).
Note: Timing wheel rear has center protruding neck which mounts into Vanos.
Do not tighten mounting nut at this time.
Rotate timing wheel to position reference hole approximately as shown (picture).

Install bank 1 & 2 timing wheel positioning tool. For each timing wheel perform following.
Mount corresponding timing wheel positioning tool at timing cover head surface and insert tool pin in timing wheel hole. Rotate timing wheel as needed for pin/hole alignment.
Mount positioning tool with upper timing cover long bolt at top and short bolt at bottom. Rest positioning tool top bracket on head top to align positioning tool and facilitate bolt insertion. Do not fully tighten bolts at this time.
Precisely align positioning tool by aligning top bracket onto head top surface. Lightly tighten mounting bolts (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ extension).

Tighten bank 1 & 2 timing wheel mounting nut. For each timing wheel perform following.
Fully tighten timing wheel mounting nut, 40 Nm (29.5 ft-lb); left hand thread (24mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ torque wrench).

Remove bank 1 & 2 timing wheel positioning tool mounting bolts and remove positioning tools (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ extension).

Loosen chain tensioning tool spindle (8mm socket 1/4″ / fingers).
Remove tool block 2 mounting bolts and remove chain tensioning tool (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ extension).
Remove tool spindle nut from tool block.

Unlocking of camshafts

Remove bank 1 & 2 camshaft locking blocks. For each camshaft set perform following.
Loosen locking blocks matting bolt (6mm hex bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet).
Dislodge and remove locking blocks.
Note: Bank 1 intake camshaft will rotate clockwise when locking block is removed. This is due to valve spring load.

Installation of upper timing covers

Remove bank 1 crankshaft chain tensioner rubber grommet.
Pry out grommet (90 degree pick tool).

Install bank 1 crankshaft chain tensioner new rubber grommet.
Clean grommet mounting hole (brake cleaner & towels).
Fully press in new grommet into mounting hole (fingers).

Install bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover gasket. For each upper timing cover perform following.
Note: Bank 1 & 2 gaskets are different.
Align gasket with timing cover perimeter groove.
Insert gasket, ridge side, into cover groove.
Align and fully press in gasket into cover groove.

Apply bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover lower rear gasket 3Bond Drei Sealant (BS0SS) (www.beisansystems.com)sealant. For each upper timing cover perform following.
Place thin coat of gasket sealant at timing cover engine lower rear corners.
Allow sealant to solidify for 2 minutes before mounting timing cover.

Mount bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover. For each upper timing cover perform following.
Mount upper timing cover on engine head.
Note: Bank 2 lower left mounting bolt must be installed in timing cover before installing cover on head. This is due to access restriction. Bolt is long with smooth neck.

Install bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover bolts. For each upper timing cover perform following.
Install 6 mounting bolts, 3 at each side of cover (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ extension).
Bank 2 lower left mounting bolt requires a low profile tool for access (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Note: Upper and lower bolts are long with smooth neck and middle bolt is short and fully threaded. Bank 2 right side upper bolt is short and fully threaded.
Screw in bolts until snug. Do not tighten at this time.

Assemble 8 valve cover side bolts with 2 washers and new rubber grommet each.
Note: Bolts are used in following step to mount valve cover without gasket and apply downward pressure on upper timing cover to position properly for mounting.
Note: Second bolt washer is needed to fill in space usually taken by valve cover gasket.

Install bank 1 & 2 valve cover without gasket. For each valve cover perform following.
Mount valve cover on engine head. Position ground strap in sparkplug well.
Install valve cover 4 side mounting bolts with 2 washers and new rubber grommet each at two front side bolt holes (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Tighten bolts evenly in multiple passes. Verify one pass with all bolts fully tightened.
Tight bolts until moderate resistance is reached. Do not over tighten bolts.

Tighten bank 1 & 2 upper timing cover bolts. For each upper timing cover perform following.
Tighten 6 mounting bolts (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Bank 2 lower left mounting bolt requires a low profile tool for access (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Fully tighten 6 mounting bolts, 9 Nm (6.5 ft-lb) (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench & extension).
Tighten bolts evenly in multiple passes. Verify one pass with all bolts fully tightened.

Remove bank 1 & 2 valve cover. For each valve cover perform following.
Remove valve cover 4 front side mounting bolts with 2 washers and grommet (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension, flathead).
Loosen bolts evenly in multiple passes.
Remove valve cover from engine head.

Installation of solenoids

Apply bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid gasket sealant. For each solenoid perform following.
Apply thin layer of sealant at timing cover solenoid hole perimeter (gasket sealant).

Note: Solenoid gasket inner gasket is Buna and is susceptible to leaking. Sealant will allow longer functional life of gasket.

Install bank 1 & 2 Vanos solenoid. For each solenoid perform following.
Screw solenoid into engine head (hand).
Fully tighten solenoid, 25 Nm (18.5 ft-lb) (32mm special deep socket 1/2″ w/ 3/8″ to 1/2″ socket adapter / 3/8″ torque wrench).

Install bank 1 & 2 solenoid gasket. For each solenoid perform following.
Note: Gasket flat side faces timing cover and gasket protruding side faces front (pictures).
Press gasket onto solenoid and wiggle and slide gasket until it reached timing cover.
Fully press gasket onto timing cover.
Note: Timing cover gasket matting surface is slanted. Gasket will press in further at bottom and engine outer side.

Install bank 1 & 2 solenoid gasket bolts. For each solenoid perform following.
Install gasket 2 mounting bolts (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Tilt first mounting bolt to side as needed to align gasket with bolt hole.
Fully tighten 2 mounting bolts, 9 Nm (6.5 ft-lb) (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench & extension).
Tighten bolts evenly. Verify one pass with both bolts fully tightened.

Install bank 1 & 2 solenoid electrical cable connector. For each solenoid perform following.
Press solenoid electrical cable connector onto solenoid electrical connector until connector wire clip snaps into place.

Installation of engine front components

Install new crankshaft chain tensioner.
Install new base crush washer on chain tensioner.
Press in and thread chain tensioner into engine (19mm deep socket 3/8″ / hand).
Note: Touch socket against AC compressor to properly align tensioner.
Verify crankshaft chain is positioned on chain rail guides at bank 1 & 2.
Fully tighten chain tensioner, 40 Nm (29.5 ft-lb) (19mm deep socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench).

Install oil dip stick pipe clamp mounting bolt (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).

5 series

Install fuel purge valve bracket mounting bolt (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).

7 series

Use a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension to install the hose/cable bracket mounting bolt just to the left of the Bank 2 solenoid.

Next, secure the hose bracket mounting bolt at the center of the Bank 2 upper timing cover using the same tool setup.

Finally, fasten the remaining hose bracket mounting bolt at the oil filter housing, again with a 10mm socket and 3/8″ ratchet and extension.

Removing and Installing Secondary Air Pipe O-rings

When removing the secondary air pipe’s two O-rings, address each pipe end individually. Begin by carefully cutting and removing the existing O-rings using a razor knife. For better control, gently rock the blade while applying pressure to create an effective cutting motion.

With the old O-rings removed, install new ones on both ends of the secondary air pipe. Place the new O-ring into the groove at one end first. Next, stretch the opposite end over the pipe and press it into its groove using your fingers or hands.

After securing both O-rings, mount the secondary air pipe onto the engine. Slide each end into its corresponding engine mount hole—refer to the next two pictures for guidance. Before installation, apply a light coating of assembly oil to the O-rings to ease insertion.

Install secondary air pipe onto engine and insert right and left ends into engine mount holes (see next two pictures).
Align pipe left mounting bracket with bank 1 upper timing cover mount hole.
Move pipe ends some while pressing in to align pipe and insert into mount hole.
Second pipe end insertion might need pipe bent in for hole alignment.
Wiggle and press in pipe ends. Pipe ends might not fully insert into holes. This will be addressed in next step when mounting bolts are installed.

Begin by installing the secondary air pipe left mounting bolt using a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and medium extension.

Repeat the process for the second left mounting bolt using the same tool setup.

For the center mounting bolt, switch to a T30 Torx bit with a 1/4″ ratchet and extension, and secure it into place.
If hole alignment is difficult, loosen pipe end mounting bolts, install center mounting bolt, then retighten pipe end mounting bolts.

Begin by installing the secondary air blower hose and the secondary air vacuum control hose onto the secondary air exhaust valve.
Firmly press the blower hose onto the valve connector until the hose clips snap into place.
Then, attach the vacuum hose by pushing it onto the valve hose pipe.

After that, connect the radiator lower hose to the thermostat.
Before mounting, ensure the hose connector wire clip is properly positioned on the connector.
Align the hose notch with the thermostat notch and press the connector onto the thermostat until the wire clip locks into place.

Then, attach the radiator lower hose to the lower neck of the radiator. As with the previous step, ensure the hose connector wire clip is pressed into place prior to installation.
Install hose connector onto radiator lower neck and align hose notch with radiator neck notch.
Press hose connector onto radiator neck until wire clip snaps into place.
Install temperature sensor electrical cable connector. Press cable connector onto sensor until connector wire clip snaps into place.

Install radiator upper hose onto alternator.
Press hose connector wire clip onto hose connector before mounting hose.
Install hose connector onto alternator and align hose notch with alternator notch.
Press hose connector onto alternator until wire clip snaps into place.

Install radiator upper hose onto thermostat.
Press hose connector wire clip onto hose connector before mounting hose.
Install hose connector onto thermostat and align hose notch with thermostat notch.
Press hose connector onto thermostat until wire clip snaps into place.

Install radiator upper hose onto radiator upper neck.
Press hose connector wire clip onto hose connector before mounting hose.
Install hose connector onto radiator upper neck and align hose notch with radiator neck notch.
Press hose connector onto radiator neck until wire clip snaps into place.

Unlocking crankshaft

Raise front of car and place on jack stands (follow appropriate procedure; chock both sides of both rear wheels).

Pull out crankshaft lock pin from crankshaft lock hole.

Install inspection hole cap.
Orient cap with handle ridge vertical.
Insert cap side tabs into inspection hole, then cap lower tab into hole.
Note: Picture cap orientation wrong.

Lower car from jack stands (follow appropriate procedure).

Installation of valve covers

Install bank 1 & 2 camshaft oil rails. For each set of camshafts perform following.
Note: Bank 1 and Bank 2 camshaft oil rails are different.
The front of each oil rail is identified by a dimple located between the first and second holes.
Intake and exhaust oil rails are interchangeable, as are the top and bottom orientations—they can be installed either way.
Install intake and exhaust camshaft oil rails in position over bearing cap studs.
Install 5 mounting nuts at each oil rail (10mm deep socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet, 10mm ratcheting wrench).
Fully tighten, 8 Nm (6 ft-lb) (10mm deep socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench, 10mm ratcheting wrench).
Tighten nuts evenly. Verify one pass with all nuts fully tightened.

Install bank 1 & 2 valve cover gaskets. For each valve cover perform following.
Note: Bank 1 & 2 gaskets are different.
Note: Orientation of sparkplug well gasket tab is of no significance.
Align perimeter gasket with valve cover perimeter groove and sparkplug well gasket with valve cover sparkplug well groove.
Insert gaskets, ridge side, into cover grooves.
Align and fully press in gaskets into cover grooves.

Note side flaps on rear half-moon gasket section. These flaps must straddle head rear when valve cover is installed.

Apply bank 1 & 2 head rear half-moon gasket 3Bond Drei Sealant (BS0SS) (www.beisansystems.com)sealant. For each head perform following.
Place thin coat of gasket sealant at head rear half-moon corners.
Allow sealant to solidify for 2 minutes before mounting valve cover.

Apply bank 1 & 2 head front timing cover gasket 3Bond Drei Sealant (BS0SS) (www.beisansystems.com). For each head perform following.
Place thin coat of gasket sealant at each side of timing cover gasket joint with head.
Allow sealant to solidify for 2 minutes before mounting valve cover.

Install bank 1 & 2 valve cover. For each valve cover perform following.
Place valve cover with gaskets on engine head. Position ground strap in sparkplug well.
Note: On 540, bank 2 valve cover is difficult to install due to fuel hose. Cover perimeter gasket will come off due to being hit by intake camshaft bearing cap stud. Reinstall gasket in cover once cover is in position above head.
Install 2 side bolts w/ washer and grommet at front top and rear bottom of valve cover.
Adjust cover position to center cover holes with studs and screw on bolts to position cover on head (hands).
Install bolts with only one turn to allow valve cover to stay loose.

Verify bank 1 & 2 valve cover seating. For each valve cover perform following.
Inspect valve cover gasket seating along valve cover perimeter and sparkplug well (mirror & flashlight).
Verify gasket 2 rear half-moons are properly inserted in head half-moons (mirror & flashlight).
Half-moon rear flaps should be seated to rear of head (pictures).
Reposition cover and gaskets as needed to correctly align gaskets.

Install bank 1 & 2 valve cover mounting bolts. For each valve cover perform following.
Install 11 valve cover mounting bolts w/ washers & grommets, 3 at front and 4 at each side (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Note: Front 3 bolts are different than remaining 8 bolts.
Tighten bolts evenly working back and forth, assuring even pressure distribution on cover. Tighten until bolts bottom out (stop turning).
Fully tighten, 8Nm (6 ft-lb) (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench & extension).

Mount the battery positive cable onto the Bank 2 valve cover and insert it into the cable box.
Next, attach the cable to the stud and secure it using a nut with a 19mm socket and a 1/2″ ratchet.

Proceed by installing the top cover gaskets on both Bank 1 and Bank 2 valve covers.
For each valve cover, position the top cover gasket properly before final installation.

Install bank 1 & 2 electrical housings.
Press bank 1 & 2 electrical housings fuel injector electrical connector wire clips onto connectors.
Release bank 1 & 2 electrical housings tie (bungee cord).
Position bank 1 & 2 electrical housings with fuel injector electrical connectors on fuel injectors.
Press down on bank 1 & 2 electrical housings to press on each fuel injector electrical connector until connector wire clip snaps into place.
Note: Electrical housing mounting studs will be inserted into mounting brackets.

Mount the secondary air solenoid bracket onto the front stud of the bank 1 electrical housing.

Then, attach the vacuum accumulator bracket to the front stud of the bank 2 electrical housing.

After both brackets are in place, secure the electrical housings for bank 1 and bank 2 by installing the two mounting nuts using a 10 mm deep socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension.
Press down on housing while mounting nut to keep housing stud from slipping out of mounting bracket.

Install bank 1 & 2 O2 sensor cable connector. For each O2 sensor perform following.
Press O2 sensor electrical cable connector onto electrical housing top middle connector until connector tabs snaps into place.

Install bank 1 & 2 camshaft position sensor cable connector. For each camshaft position sensor perform following.
Press camshaft position sensor cable connector onto electrical housing top front connector until connector wire clip snaps into place.

Connect the secondary air control solenoid cable by pressing the connector onto the solenoid at the top left middle of the intake manifold. Make sure the connector wire clip snaps into place to ensure a secure fit.

Next, install the ignition coils for both Bank 1 and Bank 2. For each bank, begin by inserting the coils into their original spark plug wells and aligning them with the mounting studs. Secure each coil using two nuts with a 10mm socket, 3/8″ ratchet, and extension.

Finally, attach the coil harness ground wires at coils 2 and 7, and the coil ground straps at coils 3 and 6.
Tighten coil mounting nuts evenly to mount coil evenly.
Note: Coil boot will not fully insert onto sparkplug during initial mount. This is normal.
Fully tighten, 9Nm (6.5 ft-lb) (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ torque wrench & extension).

For each coil, lift up on connector metal lock, press in cable electrical connector, and push down on connector metal lock.
Seat each coil connector cable rubber bracket onto top cover gasket.

Remove 4 top cover mounting bolt shaft O-rings (90 degree pick tool).
Install 4 top cover mounting bolt shaft new O-rings.
Note: Bolt shafts will be in top cover holes if not previously removed with bolts.

Install bank 1 & 2 top cover. For each bank perform following.
Note: Bank 1 & 2 top covers are different. Bank 2 top cover has 5th slot for batter positive cable.
Install top cover on valve cover. Verify 4 coil cable rubber brackets insert into cover slots. Verify banks 2 battery positive cable inserts into cover slot.
Start by installing the two cover mounting bolts with shafts using a 10mm socket, 3/8″ ratchet, and extension.
Next, align the silver lines on each bolt cover cap with the cover, then insert the clip at an angle and gently press down on the opposite end to secure it (see picture for reference).

Finally, connect the battery negative cable to the battery.
Open rear trunk lid. Open right fender cabin door (at trunk orientation).
Install negative cable clamp on battery negative post.
Tighten battery negative cable mounting nut (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).

Cabin filter housing installation

E39 cabin filter housing installation

Fan and shroud installation

Fan & shroud installation

Engine air intake installation

Engine air intake installation

Post repair procedures

Mix 2 gallons of coolant. BMW coolant is mixed 50/50% coolant/distilled water.

Remove coolant expansion tank cap.
Pour coolant into expansion tank until coolant level stick reaches tank rim.

Start engine.
Pour coolant into expansion tank until coolant level stick reaches tank rim.

Drive car until coolant and engine fully warm up.
Place towel around coolant expansion tank cap (towels).
Slowly unscrew expansion tank cap until air/coolant leak out.
Close expansion tank cap when only coolant and no air is escaping.

Check coolant level and fill as needed when engine is fully cold (morning).

M62TU Vanos Procedure (E39, E38)