S54 Vanos Rattle Procedure

The following information is provided for reference purposes only and should be used at your own risk S54 Vanos Rattle Removal Guide
In no event shall Beisan Systems, LLC or its members be liable for incidental, consequential, or special loss or damages of any kind however caused.

Introductio

“Vanos” is BMW’s name for its variable valve timing units. Vanos units take on various shapes and design according to car year and model (engine model). The vanos discussed here is BMW part # 11-36-7-838-161. It’s a double vanos, meaning both the intake and exhaust valve timing is varied. This vanos unit is part of BMW 6-cylinder engine S54. This engine powers the M3 E46 (00-06), Z3 E36 M Roadster & M Coupé (00-02), Z4 E85 M3.2 Roadster (05-08), and Z4 E86 M3.2 Coupé (06-08).

The diaphragm spring, incorporated in the intake and exhaust sprockets, helps address the rattle.. This spring loads the sprocket rotational movement to dampen the rattle quick movements.
Over time the diaphragm spring weakens and degrades in function. The Vanos rattle specifically results from wear in the helical (slanted) gears used for variable valve timing. These gears, located on the camshaft sprocket and the splined shaft connected to the Vanos, experience wear over time. Rattle can also occur at idle.

On the S54 engine the part number is 11-36-7-830-684. On the S62 engine the part number is 11-36-7-833-218. But with the S62 engine BMW redesigned the diaphragm spring to thicken it. This part is more effective and lasts longer.

This Vanos, similar to most Vanos designs, can develop a rattle. . As a result , this wear allows the camshaft to have lash movements, which engage the splined shaft axially.

At certain RPMs , these movements resonate and interact with axial play (free space), ultimately causing associated components to hit and rattle. Moreover , the axial play that facilitates the rattle is located in both the helical gears and the splined shaft bearing.

Although replacing the helical gear components might seem like a solution, it is expensive, and unfortunately , the gears will wear again over time, leading to the return of the rattle. Removing the axial play in the splined shaft bearing significantly reduces the rattle, making it barely audible or completely inaudible from inside the passenger compartment. Performance cams like the ones on this engine create stronger camshaft lash forces and thus are more susceptible to causing a rattle.

For an in depth discussion of the rattle cause and solution reference the Beisan single and double rattle procedure and single diaphragm spring procedure introductions.

S54 Vanos Rattle Procedure

Removing the splined shaft bearing axial play requires modifying or replacing one or more bearing components. The thrust bearings are a standard part, manufactured to tight tolerances. Modifying or replacing them is not feasible. The center washer also has tight tolerances. The ring, however, is a non-standard part with loose tolerances. The ring consists of standard annealed (soft) steel, enabling the center washer and thrust bearing to score it.

The outer flat washers reside inside the ring and thus influence the bearing axial fit. The washers are a standard bearing part, but due to their stamped manufacturing have a notable tolerance range which can significantly affect the bearing axial fit. You can replace the ring with one made of hardened and ground bearing steel that meets bearing standards. You can tightly control its height to ensure a precise bearing axial fit.

Alternatively, you can use standard bearing washers that technicians have measured and sorted to achieve the required height for a tight bearing axial fit. During installation, you can make a bearing adjustment to address any minor variations in the axial fit.

The vanos rattle repair kit includes two sets of replacement bearing ring and two outer washers.

S54 Vanos Rattle Removal Guide

Opening the splined shaft to modify the bearing requires counter holding the splined shaft and unscrewing the cover. The splined shaft doesn’t have a built in area for tool holding, and the cover only has two holes in it for manipulation. The cover threads also have high strength thread locker which makes cover removal difficult.
You need a splined shaft holder tool to receive and hold the splined shaft, as well as a socket tool with dowels to insert into the holes in the splined shaft cover for opening and closing it.

The splined shaft bearing consists of a thick washer and two thrust (roller) bearings. The washer includes a stud mounted to the VANOS piston. Meanwhile , the two thrust bearings sandwich the washer, enabling the splined shaft to rotate at camshaft speed without rotating the VANOS piston. A ring encases the washer and two thrust bearings, along with two outer flat washers. Consequently , the complete bearing assembly sits inside the splined shaft cavity, and a threaded cover seals it securely.

The VANOS rattle tools include a splined shaft holder and a dedicated wrench adapter. The square-shaped holder mounts in a vise to receive and counter-hold the splined shaft.

Certainly! Here’s the revised version with “socket” replaced:
The tool is a typical 1/2″ drive size and features pins that fit into the splined shaft cover openings to open and close the cover. Additionally , use the attachment with a power tool to break loose the cover’s thread adhesive. You can also use the fitting with a torque wrench for final tightening.

S54 Vanos Rattle Removal Guide

Let me know if you’d like further adjustments!

The exhaust upper chain guide mating section with the exhaust lower chain guide wears and breaks by ~80k miles. It also causes uneven wear and damage to the exhaust lower chain guide mating surface. You can replace the exhaust upper chain guide, made from virgin Nylon with a webbed center body, with a chain guide made from superior Nylon and featuring a solid body. This upgrade will allow the chain guide to last over 250,000 miles. It will also enact even wear and less wear on the lower chain guide allowing it to have a longer functional lifespan.

You can acquire the VANOS rattle repair kit, rattle tools, and exhaust upper chain guide through Beisan Systems (pronounced “bee-saan”), www.beisansystems.com/products.

Symptoms

Vanos rattle at a certain RPM range, often 1800-2200 RPM. Rattle can also occur at idle.

Repair Procedure

The following procedure outlines the S54 VANOS splined shaft bearing rattle repair. As part of the repair, it is essential to replace the sprocket hub diaphragm springs and their associated pressure plates with S62 parts. This is because the S62 parts feature a redesigned, thicker, and stronger diaphragm spring, which in turn provides better control over the rattle.

By upgrading to these components , the repair not only addresses the immediate issue but also enhances the long-term durability of the system. Furthermore , this step is a key part of the S54 Vanos Rattle Removal Guide , which aims to provide a comprehensive solution for eliminating the rattle effectively.

The procedure also addresses replacing the sprocket sleeve bolts that come loose on the intake side, and implicitly covers replacing the exhaust sprocket hub that can experience broken driver tabs.

S54 Vanos Rattle Procedure

Perform this repair alongside the S54 VANOS seals and oil pump disk repair.
S54 Vanos Procedure

Repair time: 4 hours mechanic, 5+ hours DIY.

Parts, Tools, and Shop Supplies

S54 vanos rattle repair kit (BS022) $80/each (www.beisansystems.com), S54/S62 vanos rattle tools (BS095) $20/each (www.beisansystems.com)

2 x S62 sprocket hub diaphragm spring and pressure plate (11-36-7-833-218) $30.89/each

12 x sprocket sleeve bolts (07-12-9-905-536) $.74/each

For this repair, you will need the Beisan exhaust upper chain guide (BS026), available for $80 each at www.beisansystems.com . Additionally , you’ll require a chain guide mounting bolt washer (part #07-11-9-963-342), priced at $1.11 each, as well as a crankshaft chain tensioner washer (part #07-11-9-963-418), which costs $1.04 each.

These components are critical for ensuring proper installation and functionality. Moreover , using the correct parts helps maintain the integrity of the timing system and prevents potential issues down the line.

10mm hex bit socket 3/8″, 32mm deep socket 1/2″

For this procedure, you will need the following tools:
The BMW camshaft alignment bridge (part #83-30-0-493-749), which costs $97.66 each, as well as the BMW crankshaft locking pin (part #83-30-0-490-861), priced at $20.86 each.

However, always use only Genuine BMW alignment bridges, as this is critically important. This is because all available aftermarket bridges lack precision, and as a result , they can cause incorrect timing, which may lead to potentially severe consequences such as bent valves.
4″, or larger, swivel vise

Note: You must mount the vise before use.

1/2″ impact wrench

For this repair, you will need the following materials:
High-strength thread locker (such as Loctite Threadlocker Heavy Duty (Euro Green, US Red) or Permatex Threadlocker High Strength Red) as well as medium-strength thread locker (like Loctite Threadlocker Medium Duty Blue or Permatex Threadlocker Medium Strength Blue). Additionally, you will need 300-400 grit sandpaper, though the diagram does not show it..

It is important to note that you must perform the repair only after removing the Vanos from the engine. To guide you through this process , refer to the S54 Vanos Procedure , which provides detailed instructions for safe and effective removal.

By following these steps carefully, you can ensure that you complete the repair successfully and reassemble all components correctly.

To begin , inspect the TDC (top dead center) timing marks on the engine timing cover and the crankshaft harmonic balancer, which should be located at approximately the 11 o’clock position. For better visibility , you can use a mirror to assist with this inspection.

If necessary , slightly adjust the crankshaft pulley to precisely align the TDC timing marks. For this adjustment , use a 1/2″ crankshaft turning socket along with a 1/2″ long-arm ratchet and a short extension.

As a helpful reminder, ensure that the pointer on the timing cover bracket aligns with the single mark on the harmonic balancer. This alignment is critical , as it ensures accurate timing and proper engine performance.

Install crankshaft locking pin in timing cover bracket hole.
If pin not inserting repeat above step to achieve precise timing mark alignment.

Removal of splined shafts and sprocket hubs

Before removing splined shafts and sprocket hubs, inspect their installed positions as a reference for reinstallation.

Before removing splined shafts and sprocket hubs, inspect their installed positions as a reference for reinstallation.
First , check (and feel) the amount of hub bolts protruding from the rear of the sprockets, which should be slightly protruding.

Next , observe the hole at the top of each sprocket hub, as it plays a key role in alignment.

Keep in mind that you should orient the exhaust hub’s front protruding tabs horizontally with the floor to ensure proper positioning.

Take notice that the intake splined shaft splines are protruding slightly from the hub, indicating correct assembly.

Be aware that the exhaust splined shaft splines are slightly recessed into the hub, which is an intentional design feature.

To prepare , insert double-length, double-layer folded towels under the sprockets. This step is crucial , as the towels serve to prevent parts and tools from accidentally dropping into the engine.

Additionally , ensure that the holes are completely covered by the towels. This is important to avoid any debris or small components falling into the engine, which could lead to further complications.

Begin by loosening the sprocket hub mounting bolts. Specifically , loosen each of the six mounting bolts on both the intake and exhaust sprocket hubs by approximately 2.5 turns.

For this task , use a 10mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension. This step is essential , as it prepares the sprockets for removal or adjustment while maintaining their alignment during the process.

Remove splined shafts from intake and exhaust sprocket hubs.
Grasp and pull out each splined shaft. Hub will rotate as splined shaft is removed.
If splined shaft resistant, further loosen hub mounting bolts. Bolts should have no tension.

Remove intake and exhaust sprocket hubs.
For each hub, remove 6 mounting bolts then pull off hub from sprocket (fingers, hands).
Note: Hubs have a diaphragm spring and pressure plate at their rear center. Remove these parts with hub.

Replacement of sprocket sleeve bolts

Start by cleaning the fronts of both the intake and exhaust sprockets. To prevent mess , place additional folded towels underneath each sprocket to catch any cleaning fluid and oil that may drip during the process.

Next , thoroughly spray clean the fronts of the sprockets using brake cleaner. Be sure to focus on spraying the sprocket slots and bolt holes within the slots, as these areas can accumulate dirt and debris that may affect performance.

It’s important to ensure that you completely clean all surfaces, especially the slots and bolt holes, to maintain proper functionality.

Insert small piece of towel in each camshaft center to prevent further oil leakage (towels).

Remove one intake sprocket sleeve bolt (5mm hex bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Note: Unlike indicated by picture, start with a top bolt.

Spray clean bolt hole (brake cleaner).
Wipe dry bolt hole by inserting towel in bolt hole (towels).

Apply thread locker to new sprocket hub bolt (medium strength thread locker).

Install new hub bolt with thread locker (T30 torx bit socket 1/4″ / 1/4″ ratchet & extension).
Fully tighten, 12 Nm (9 ft-lb) (T30 torx bit socket 1/4″ w/ 3/8″ to 1/4″ socket adapter / 3/8″ torque wrench & extension).

Perform above bolt replacement procedure for all intake sprocket sleeve bolts.
Note: Replace bolts from top down so cleaning spray will not drain over new bolts.

Perform above bolt replacement procedure for all exhaust sprocket sleeve bolts.
Note: Replace bolts from top down so cleaning spray will not drain over new bolts.

Remove top layer of towels under sprockets used to catch cleaning fluid and oil.

Replacement of chain guide

Remove towels under sprockets.

Begin by removing the crankshaft chain tensioner located on the engine’s exhaust side. To prevent oil spills , insert a towel below the tensioner to catch any draining oil.

Next , eliminate the chain tensioner by using a 32mm deep socket with a 1/2″ long-arm ratchet and a short extension. This step is crucial , as it allows you to safely remove the tensioner without damaging surrounding components.

Once the technician removes the tensioner, they should cut and discard the crush washer at its base.
It’s important to replace this washer later , as reusing it could compromise the seal and lead to leaks.

Remove exhaust sprocket.
Pull forward on exhaust sprocket to remove from exhaust camshaft and remove chain from exhaust sprocket.

Loosen chain guide mounting bolt (10mm hex bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ long-arm ratchet & extension).

Remove chain guide mounting bolt and chain guide (10mm hex bit socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ extension).
If chain guide lower piece broken, also remove this.
Note: Picture shows chain guide pulled up and maintained in place by mounting bolt. Additionally, remove the broken lower piece of the chain guide and mount it on the timing cover.

Clean chain guide mounting bolt and bolt mounting points on engine (brake cleaner & towels).

To start, remove the crankshaft chain tensioner, which is located on the engine’s exhaust side. In order to prevent oil spills , place a towel underneath the tensioner to catch any draining oil.

Following this , use a 32mm deep socket with a 1/2″ long-arm ratchet and a short extension to carefully eliminate the chain tensioner. This step is essential to safely remove the tensioner without damaging nearby components.

After removing the tensioner, cut and discard the crush washer at its base. Remember to replace this washer during reassembly; reusing it could compromise the seal and cause oil leaks.

Install exhaust sprocket.
Position the exhaust sprocket with the bolt slots approximately on the right and left sides (see picture).
To begin , mount the chain onto the sprocket and then position the sprocket onto the camshaft. If necessary , remove and reinstall the sprocket to achieve the correct orientation of the bolt slots.

It’s important to note that the rotational position of the sprocket on the chain and camshaft is not critical for timing. However, the orientation of the bolt slots on the right and left sides is key, as it facilitates the proper positioning of the hub tabs. This alignment is essential for accessing the Vanos piston and splined shaft stud joint during the repair.

Next, position the rear ring of both the intake and exhaust sprockets forward, and ensure the sprocket presses firmly against the ring. Keep in mind that precise positioning is not critical at this stage, so focus on achieving a snug fit without over-tightening.

Install crankshaft chain tensioner with new crush washer (32mm deep socket 1/2″ / hand).

Fully tighten tensioner (32mm deep socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).
Tighten tensioner a further ~1/2 turn after initial tightness to crush washer.

Reinstall towels under sprockets.

Installation of sprocket hubs

Clean sprocket hubs 12 mounting bolts (brake cleaner & towels).

Remove sprocket hubs old pressure plate and diaphragm springs.
Spray clean sprocket hubs (brake cleaner & towels). Note: Be sure to clean bolt holes.

Install new diaphragm spring, cup side down, into each sprocket hub.

Install new pressure plate into each sprocket hub. Align pressure plate and hub keys.

Warning: Do not mix old and new diaphragm spring and pressure plate parts, as the dimensions have changed.

Adjust position of bolt hole in sprocket slot to be at center of slot (straight pick).
Note: Bolt hole is part of sprocket rear plate and plate is free and can rotate.
Remove towels from camshaft holes.

Install hubs onto sprockets with one mounting bolt.
Align hub on sprocket with one of two side holes at top (picture). Note: Hub side holes are on opposite sides of hub.
Align hub bolt hole to right of top hole with bolt hole in sprocket slot.
Insert mounting bolt in hub top hole and rotate sprocket rear plate as needed to align and insert bolt.
Tighten bolt until initial resistance (hand).
Note that the protruding front tabs on the exhaust hub are aligned horizontally with the floor.

Install remaining hub mounting bolts.
Tighten bolts until initial resistance (hand).
Note: Fully tighten the bolts in the upcoming steps.

Installation of splined shaft rattle kit

Following procedure shows exhaust splined shaft but applies for both intake and exhaust splined shafts.
Perform following for each splined shaft.

Removal of Splined shaft bearing

Clean splined shaft (brake cleaner & towels).

Spray then drain cleaner through splined shaft cover holes to clear oil from bearing (brake cleaner).
Note: Removing oil from splined shaft bearing allows for bearing fit assessment in next step.

Inspect splined shaft bearing axial play.
Hold splined shaft and tilt (rock) splined shaft stud to each side to note bearing axial play (free space).
You can also check for axial play by repeatedly inserting and withdrawing the stud from the splined shaft.
Note: Radial play, side to side movement, is normal and necessary. Do not confuse this with axial play, which is an in-and-out movement.

Open vise jaws as far as necessary to insert splined shaft holder.
Insert splined shaft holder in vise and align top to vise jaw top. Strongly tighten vise on splined shaft holder.

Insert splined shaft in splined shaft holder.

Install splined shaft socket on splined shaft and insert socket pins into splined shaft cover holes.
Note: The socket pins will fit tightly in the splined shaft cover holes; you may need to rock the socket to fully insert the pins. Hit socket with hammer if necessary to fully insert.
Ensure the socket pins are fully inserted into the splined shaft cover holes and the socket is completely seated on the cover.

Warning: Improper insertion or seating can cause the socket dowels to slip out of the holes. This can damage the holes and cause the socket to break the splined shaft stud.

Loosen (break seize) splined shaft cover (splined shaft socket / 1/2″ impact wrench).
If available, set impact wrench power to lowest setting.
Engage impact wrench in reverse for 3 second intervals at a time until cover loosens (seize breaks).
Note: Hold down impact wrench for control.

Warning: Do not use ratchet to open splined shaft cover as this will likely cause socket to slip and break splined shaft stud. Only use an impact wrench.

Remove splined shaft cover (splined shaft socket / 1/2″ ratchet).
Note: Splined shaft cover will turn with difficulty due to thread locker.
The bearing top washer will likely remain attached to the splined shaft cover and come out with it.

Remove splined shaft center washer / stud (hand).
Note: Splined shaft stud is integral with bearing center washer.
Bearing top thrust (roller) bearing will come out with stud and center washer.

Remove bearing bottom thrust (roller) bearing.
Insert pick tip between thrust bearing inner bottom and bottom washer and pry thrust bearing out (90 degree pick).

Remove bearing outer ring.
Place towel on table.
Remove splined shaft from holder, tilt upside down, and hit on towel on table.
Bearing ring will dislodge in splined shaft. Remove bearing ring with index finger.
If bearing ring tilts and binds in splined shaft, press ring down in splined shaft to remount, then reattempt removal.
Reinstall splined shaft in splined shaft holder.

Remove bearing bottom washer.
Insert pick tip between washer inner bottom and splined shaft and pry washer out (90 degree pick).

Cleaning of splined shaft parts

Clean bearing parts (brake cleaner & towels).
Clean the bearing parts thoroughly to properly assess the new bearing’s axial fit.

Remove old thread locker on cover and housing thread. Use pick tool to press tip into thread valley and run pick throughout thread (90 degree pick).
Fully remove the old thread locker to allow the new thread locker to bond with the parts.
Clean splined shaft bearing cavity and cover (brake cleaner & towels).

Installation of splined shaft bearing

Replace bearing ring and top and bottom washers with new parts.

Bearing parts installation sequence from right to left.
Bearing parts from left to right: Cover, top washer, top thrust bearing, center washer / stud, bottom thrust bearing, bottom washer, bearing ring.

Insert splined shaft in splined shaft holder.

Insert new bearing ring in splined shaft (fingers).
Note: New ring is marked “BS” on outer perimeter.
Initially insert ring in splined shaft.
Insert right and left index fingers into ring. Press fingers against ring inner right and left walls and manipulate ring side to side while slightly pressing down to facilitate ring full insertion.

Rotate position of fingers 90 degrees and repeat ring insertion to verify full insertion.
Note: Ring should fully mate with splined shaft bottom (picture).

Insert bearing bottom washer in splined shaft bearing ring.
Note: Splined shaft bearing top and bottom washers are interchangeable. Since both washer faces are identical, insert the washer in either orientation.

Insert bearing bottom thrust (roller) bearing in splined shaft bearing ring.
Note: Splined shaft bearing top and bottom thrust bearings are interchangeable. Since both thrust bearing faces are functionally identical, install the thrust bearing in either orientation.

Insert bearing center washer / stud in splined shaft bearing ring.

Insert bearing top thrust (roller) bearing onto splined shaft stud and in splined shaft bearing ring.
Note: Both thrust bearing faces function identically, so you can install the thrust bearing in either orientation.

Insert bearing top washer onto splined shaft stud and in splined shaft bearing ring.
Note: Both washer faces are identical, so you can insert the washer in either orientation

Install splined shaft cover onto splined shaft (splined shaft socket / 1/2″ ratchet).

When splined shaft cover is fully installed its top will be even with splined shaft rim (picture).
If cover is higher than splined shaft rim then bearing parts are not installed correctly and interfering with cover installation. Remove cover and reinstall bearing parts.

Fully tighten splined shaft cover, 55 Nm (40.5 ft-lb) (splined shaft socket / 3/8″ torque wrench & 3/8″ to 1/2″ socket adapter).

Inspection and adjustment of splined shaft bearing

Inspect splined shaft bearing axial play.
Hold splined shaft and rotate splined shaft stud to note resistance to rotation.
Hold splined shaft and tilt (rock) splined shaft stud to each side to note bearing axial play (free space).
Note: Axial fit cannot be properly assessed until splined shaft cover is fully tightened.
Note: Radial play, side to side movement, is normal and necessary. This should not be confused with axial play, in/out movement.

If splined shaft stud binds and is difficult to rotate then axial fit is too tight and loosening adjustment is needed.
If splined shaft stud has any tilt movement then axial play is present and tightening adjustment is needed.
Any level of resistance (pre-load), without binding, in splined shaft stud rotation indicates no axial play and is considered an optimal fit.

Bearing loosening adjustment.
If splined shaft binds and is difficult to rotate then axial fit it too tight and loosening adjustment is needed.
Disassemble splined shaft bearing per above procedure.
Place sandpaper (300-400 grit) on flat table top. Place bearing outer washer on sandpaper.
Slide washer side to side on sandpaper ~6″ back and forth while moderately pressing washer on sandpaper. Perform sanding for 10 seconds.
Rotate washer 90 degrees and repeat sanding process.
Flip washer to opposite side and repeat above sanding procedure; 10 seconds sanding, rotate 90 degrees, 10 seconds sanding.
Clean washer (brake cleaner & towels).
Repeat washer sanding for second outer washer.
Reassemble splined shaft bearing per above procedure and reassess bearing axial fit.
Note: Washers are made from hardened steel and do not easily wear. Sanding procedure will remove ~.0025mm washer height, total ~.005. Washers might need max .01mm height adjustment.

Bearing tightening adjustment.
If splined shaft has any tilt movement then axial play is present and tightening adjustment is needed.
Disassemble splined shaft bearing per above procedure.
Place sandpaper (300-400 grit) on flat table top. Place bearing ring on sandpaper.
Slide ring side to side on sandpaper ~6″ back and forth while moderately pressing ring on sandpaper. Perform sanding for 5 seconds.
Rotate ring 90 degrees and repeat sanding process.
Flip ring to opposite side and repeat above sanding procedure; 5 seconds sanding, rotate 90 degrees, 5 seconds sanding.
Clean ring (brake cleaner & towels).
Reassemble splined shaft bearing per above procedure and reassess bearing axial fit.
Note: Ring is made from hardened steel and does not easily wear. Sanding procedure will remove ~.005mm ring height. Ring might need max .01mm height adjustment.

Once splined shaft bearing fit is assessed, and if needed adjustment performed, thread locker needs to be applied to splined shaft cover.
Remove splined shaft cover from splined shaft per above procedure.
Apply thread locker at middle of threads along perimeter of cover (high strength thread locker).
Reinstall splined shaft cover and fully tighten per above instructions.

Installation of vanos with splined shafts

Install splined shafts onto vanos pistons.
Splined shaft with longer protruding stud is exhaust splined shaft and splined shaft with shorter stud is intake splined shaft.
Vanos piston at center of oil pump disk is exhaust piston and other side piston is intake piston.
Thread splined shaft studs into their corresponding pistons; left hand thread.
Note: Splined shaft studs and piston threads are left hand thread. Thus turn splined shaft stud counter clockwise to thread into piston thread.
Thread splined shaft studs fully into corresponding pistons by rotating splined shaft studs; left hand thread (hand).

Tighten splined shaft studs to their corresponding pistons; left hand thread (10mm open wrench / 7mm open wrench).
Note: Due to left hand thread, it is not necessary to over tighten joint.

To begin , install the Vanos alignment bridge (without the alignment dowel) on the engine head between cylinders 2 and 3. For reference , refer to the accompanying picture. It’s important to note that the bridge has a specific intake and exhaust orientation. For clarity , “E” stands for intake (Einlass in German), and “A” stands for exhaust (Auslass in German).

Next , insert the bridge alignment dowel through the hole on the intake side of the bridge, and then carefully insert the dowel into the intake camshaft alignment hole. If necessary , lift up either the intake or exhaust end of the bridge to align and properly insert the dowel into the camshaft hole.

Following this , rotate the intake camshaft at the hex between cylinders 1 and 2 using a 24mm open wrench. The goal is to align the camshaft alignment hole so that it is perpendicular to the engine head, allowing both ends of the bridge to sit flat on the engine head.

Once aligned , fully insert the bridge dowel into the camshaft and onto the bridge. For this step , refer to the accompanying picture for guidance. Rotate and press down on the dowel as needed to ensure it is fully seated.

Afterward , place your hand on the middle of the bridge and gently rock the intake camshaft back and forth. This will help you identify the optimal position where the bridge’s intake and exhaust ends are sitting flat on the engine head.

Finally , remove the alignment dowel from the bridge. This completes the alignment process, ensuring everything is properly set for the next phase of the S54 Vanos Rattle Procedure.

Begin by inserting the bridge alignment dowel through the hole on the exhaust side of the bridge, then carefully insert the dowel into the exhaust camshaft alignment hole. If necessary , lift up either the intake or exhaust end of the bridge to align and properly insert the dowel into the camshaft hole.

Next , rotate the exhaust camshaft at the hex between cylinders 1 and 2 using a 24mm open wrench. The goal is to align the camshaft alignment hole so that it is perpendicular to the engine head, allowing both ends of the bridge to sit flat on the engine head.

Afterward , place your hand on the middle of the bridge and gently rock the exhaust camshaft back and forth. This will help you identify the optimal position where the bridge’s intake and exhaust ends are sitting flat on the engine head.

Finally , remove the alignment dowel from the bridge, and then carefully remove the bridge from the engine head. These steps complete the alignment process, ensuring everything is properly set for the next phase of the repair.

Install new vanos gasket on engine head.
Clean engine head gasket/vanos matting surface and head top front surfaces (remove old sealant) (brake cleaner & towels).
Place gasket on head with gasket ridge to vanos (front). Gasket two lower tabs will point to vanos (front) (picture).

Rotate intake and exhaust hubs clockwise as far as possible (hand).

Insert vanos splined shafts with pistons fully into vanos.
Clean vanos all matting surfaces (brake cleaner & towels).

Warning: Splined shafts with pistons must be fully inserted into vanos before following steps, otherwise timing will be incorrect.
Install vanos with splined shafts onto sprocket hubs.
Align and initially insert exhaust and then intake spline shafts into corresponding hubs.
Align exhaust splined shaft to insert into exhaust camshaft hole at center of hub. Rotate and insert splined shaft to insert into camshaft.
Align intake splined shaft to insert into intake camshaft hole at center of hub. Rotate and insert splined shaft to insert into camshaft.

Press vanos onto engine to insert splined shafts into camshafts and bring splined shafts slanted splines up to hubs.
Vanos press will also reinsert splined shafts and pistons fully into vanos if they came out.

Insert exhaust splined shaft slanted splines into exhaust hub.
Rotate hub counter clockwise while pressing vanos onto hub.
Splined shaft will insert into hub at first alignment of splines.

Caution: Find the smart tooth: Insert the helical teeth of the splined shaft into the splined hub in such a way that the splined hub twists as little as possible. To do this, try out different tooth positions of the spur toothing.

Insert intake splined shaft slanted splines into intake hub.
Rotate hub counter clockwise while pressing vanos onto hub.
Splined shaft will insert into hub at first alignment of splines.

Caution: When inserting the helical teeth of the splined shaft into the splined hub, it is crucial to minimize the twisting of the splined hub as much as possible. This can be achieved by carefully finding the “smart tooth.”

To do this , experiment with different tooth positions of the spur toothing until you find the optimal alignment. The goal is to ensure that the splined hub rotates as little as possible during insertion, which helps maintain proper alignment and reduces stress on the components.

By taking the time to test various positions , you can achieve a smoother and more precise fit, ensuring the system operates as intended.

Press vanos onto engine head and splined shafts will insert further into hubs.
Do not fully install vanos onto engine head.

Inspect vanos oil pump side hole and exhaust sprocket hub side tab for alignment.
Rotate vanos oil pump as needed to achieve alignment (fingers).

Press vanos onto engine head until vanos reaches alignment dowels at top corners of head.

Verify exhaust hub tab insertion into vanos oil pump hole.
Realign vanos pump as need to facilitate tab insertion (fingers).

Clean vanos 5 mounting bolts (brake cleaner & towels).

Install vanos top corner mounting bolts and thread up to vanos (hand). Do not tighten.

Press splined shafts into vanos to verify splined shafts and pistons are fully inserted into vanos (hand).

Tighten intake and exhaust hubs right and left side bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Tighten each hub 2 bolts (right and left) evenly in multiple passes.
Loosen 4 tightened bolts 1/4 turn.

Tighten vanos two corner mounting bolts evenly to draw vanos evenly onto engine head (10mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Note: Camshafts should not rotate. If they do then hub blots were not loosened sufficiently in previous step.

Steps:

Double-check each bolt to ensure none were missed or under-tightened.

Install VANOS Lower Mounting Bolts:

Use a 5mm hex bit socket with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension to install the 3 lower mounting bolts.

Hand-tighten the bolts initially to ensure they are properly threaded into the engine.

Tighten Mounting Bolts:

Use a torque wrench with a 10mm socket or 5mm hex bit socket (depending on the bolt type) and a 3/8″ extension.

Tighten all bolts to the specified torque of 10 Nm (7 ft-lb).

Note: Tighten the bolts evenly in multiple passes to ensure even pressure and avoid warping or misalignment.

For example:

First pass: Tighten all bolts to 5 Nm.

Second pass: Tighten all bolts to 7 Nm.

Final pass: Tighten all bolts to 10 Nm.

Verify Tightening:

After the final pass, verify that all bolts are fully tightened to 10 Nm.

Remove crankshaft locking pin from timing cover bracket.

Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).
When 3/4 through turn start inspecting TDC (top dead center) timing marks on engine timing cover and crankshaft harmonic balancer at ~11 o’clock position (mirror).
Adjust crankshaft pulley to align TDC timing marks (crankshaft turning socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).

Here’s the revised version with different synonyms for “note” in each line:

Ensure: Align pointer on timing cover bracket with 1 mark on harmonic balancer.
Keep in mind: Precise alignment is not necessary.
Remember: Turning crankshaft counterclockwise is acceptable.
Avoid: Do not reinstall crankshaft locking pin.

Tighten intake hub top two and right (3 total) mounting bolts and exhaust hub top two and left (3 total) mounting bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Tighten bolts evenly in multiple passes.
Note: Intake hub right mounting bolt and exhaust hub left mounting bolt will be mostly tightened since they were tightened in previous step.
Fully tighten bolts, 14 Nm (by feel) (10.5 ft-lb) (10mm ratcheting wrench).
Tighten bolts evenly in multiple passes. Verify one pass with all bolts fully tightened.
Note: When bolts fully tightened they will protrude slightly from sprocket rear face (picture). Check by feel and compare bolts.

Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).
When 3/4 through turn start inspecting TDC (top dead center) timing marks on engine timing cover and crankshaft harmonic balancer at ~11 o’clock position (mirror).
Adjust crankshaft pulley to precisely align TDC timing marks (crankshaft turning socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).
Note: Align pointer on timing cover bracket with 1 mark on harmonic balancer.
: Turning crankshaft counter clockwise is acceptable.

Install crankshaft locking pin in timing cover bracket hole.
If pin not inserting repeat above step to achieve precise timing alignment.

Begin by tightening the intake hub’s top two and right-side mounting bolts (three total), as well as the exhaust hub’s top two and left-side mounting bolts (three total), using a 10mm ratcheting wrench. It’s important to note that these bolts were already partially tightened in the previous step.

To ensure even pressure distribution , tighten the bolts gradually in multiple passes. This approach helps prevent any misalignment or uneven stress on the components.

Next , fully tighten the bolts to the specified torque of 14 Nm (10.5 ft-lb). Since this torque can be achieved by feel, use careful judgment to avoid over-tightening. Again, tighten the bolts evenly in multiple passes to maintain balance.

Finally , verify the tightening process by performing one final pass to ensure all bolts are fully secured. This step is critical to confirm that everything is properly tightened and ready for the next stage of the repair.
Note: When bolts fully tightened they will protrude slightly from sprocket rear face (picture). Check by feel and compare bolts.

Checking of engine timing

Fully retard intake and exhaust camshafts.
For each camshaft, place open wrench (24mm combo wrench) on camshaft hex between cylinders 1 & 2 and turn camshaft counter clockwise to adjustment end position.
Remember: Camshaft rotation is most effective when standing at exhaust side of car.
Avoid: Rock camshaft back and forth to release bind and allow rotation.
Ensure: Camshafts should already be in fully retarded position.

Next , insert the bridge alignment dowel through the hole on the intake side of the bridge, and then insert the dowel into the intake camshaft alignment hole. If necessary , lift up either the intake or exhaust end of the bridge to align and properly insert the dowel into the camshaft hole.

Once aligned , fully insert the dowel into the camshaft and onto the bridge. For this step , rotate and press down on the dowel as needed to ensure it is fully seated. Refer to the picture for proper positioning.

Afterward , check that both the intake and exhaust ends of the bridge are sitting flat on the engine head. To assess this , press down gently on each end of the bridge to check for any gaps between the bridge and the surface of the head. This step ensures that the bridge is properly seated and ready for the next phase of the procedure.
Timing is wrong if bridge end is lifted from engine head more than .5mm.

Remove alignment dowel from bridge.

Next , insert the bridge alignment dowel through the hole on the exhaust side of the bridge, and then insert the dowel into the exhaust camshaft alignment hole. If necessary , lift up either the intake or exhaust end of the bridge to align and properly insert the dowel into the camshaft hole.

Afterward , verify that both the intake and exhaust ends of the bridge are sitting flat on the engine head. To do this , press down gently on each end of the bridge to check for any gaps between the bridge and the surface of the head. This step is crucial , as it ensures the bridge is properly seated and ready for the next phase of the procedure.
Timing is wrong if bridge end is lifted from engine head more than .5mm.

Remove alignment dowel from bridge then bridge from engine head.

Remove crankshaft locking pin from timing cover bracket.

Adjustment of timing

If timing alignment is found to be incorrect, perform following procedure to adjust timing.
Timing adjustment procedure presumes engine position at end of timing checking; crankshaft at TDC with lock pin removed, intake and exhaust camshaft cylinder 1 cams pointing in to each other at ~45 degree angle.

Perform timing adjustment for camshaft(s) with incorrect timing alignment.

Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).

Loosen sprocket hub 3 top mounting bolts (10mm ratcheting wrench). Note: Bolts need to be notably loose so once opposite side 3 bolts are loosened hub will be free.

Turn crankshaft pulley clockwise one full rotation until timing marks match again (crankshaft turning socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ long-arm ratchet & short extension).
To begin , adjust the crankshaft pulley to precisely align the TDC (top dead center) timing marks. For this step , use a 1/2″ crankshaft turning socket with a 1/2″ long-arm ratchet and a short extension. Ensuring precise alignment is critical , as it sets the foundation for accurate timing adjustments.

Next , install the crankshaft locking pin into the hole in the timing cover bracket. This will secure the crankshaft in place , preventing any movement during subsequent steps.

Once the crankshaft is locked , fully retard the camshaft timing. To do this , place an open wrench (a 24mm combo wrench works well) on the camshaft hex located at the front of the camshaft.

Then , rotate the camshaft counterclockwise to its adjustment end position. This step ensures that the camshaft is properly aligned for the next phase of the procedure. If camshaft resistant to rotation rock camshaft back and forth to release seize.
Note: Camshaft rotation is most effective when standing at exhaust side of car.
Note: Splined shaft can be seen protruding from sprocket hub front when camshaft is at adjustment end position.

Begin by loosening the three top mounting bolts of the sprocket hub using a 10mm ratcheting wrench. At this point , all sprocket hub bolts should now be loose.

Next , install the Vanos alignment bridge (without the alignment dowel) on the engine head between cylinders 2 and 3. It’s important to note that the bridge has a specific intake and exhaust orientation. For clarity , “E” stands for intake (Einlass in German), and “A” stands for exhaust (Auslass in German).

Once the bridge is in place , insert the bridge alignment dowel through the bridge hole and into the camshaft alignment hole. If necessary , lift up either the intake or exhaust end of the bridge to align and insert the dowel into the camshaft hole.

To align the camshaft , rotate it at the hex between cylinders 1 and 2 using a 24mm open wrench. Adjust the camshaft so that the alignment hole is perpendicular to the engine head, allowing both ends of the bridge to sit flat on the engine head.

After achieving proper alignment , fully insert the bridge dowel into the camshaft and onto the bridge. As needed , turn and press down on the dowel to ensure it is fully seated.

With the dowel in place , place your hand on the middle of the bridge and gently rock the camshaft back and forth. This will help you identify and set the camshaft in the position where both the intake and exhaust ends of the bridge are sitting flat on the engine head.

Once confirmed , remove the alignment dowel and the bridge.

Finally , follow the above procedure starting from the step immediately after mounting and tightening all Vanos mounting bolts. Remember , perform the sprocket hub bolt tightening only for the adjusted camshaft(s)

Continue repair referencing S54 vanos procedure, S54 Vanos Procedure
Perform cleaning section in procedure then start at step after installing vanos mounting bolts.