E39 Rear Shocks Write-up
The following information is provided for reference purposes only and should be used at your own risk
In no event shall Beisan Systems, LLC or its members be liable for incidental, consequential, or special loss or damages of any kind however caused.
Introduction
The E39 comes equipped with OEM Sachs struts, shocks, springs, and their associated components. According to Sachs, the typical lifespan of their struts and shocks ranges between 70,000 and 120,000 miles. However, this estimate can vary depending on driving conditions and maintenance practices.
According to Sachs, cold weather and poor road conditions are the main factors contributing to the accelerated deterioration of struts and shocks. Additionally, it’s worth noting that Sachs BMW struts and shocks are manufactured in Germany.
The Sachs parts that BMW sells and those available on the open market are essentially identical, except for their part numbers. In addition, Sachs offers a lifetime warranty on their struts and shocks, covering issues such as defects or wear and tear.
This is available through third party vendors, but not through BMW.
The following is a short discussion on rear shocks failure symptoms and diagnosis, and an E39 (not T) Sachs rear shocks R&R (remove and replace) procedure.
Symptoms of E39 Rear Shocks Write-up
Initially, the rear shocks will squeak and have an extra bounce on speed bumps. Within a month this will transition to the car landing hard on speed bumps and the suspension feeling stiff on road bumps. A loss of control can also be felt during and after excessively bumpy road conditions.
Over time failing shocks can cause inner tire cupping and wear.
If the spring pads are badly worn, a clunk could be heard when landing from a speed bump.
During turns/slaloms, the rear spring/shock can give way, causing the wheel to rise into the wheel well. The swing arm in turn will rise and push the wheel lower part out (negative camber). This scenario will give the feeling of swerve/tramline.
Diagnosis
There is no practical diy diagnosis for struts/shocks. Paying attention to the symptoms is sufficient to characterizing the failure. If one end of the car is presenting with failure symptoms, then it’s likely the other end is not far behind.
Repair Procedure (E39 Rear Shocks Write-up)
The following is an E39 (not T) Sachs rear shocks R&R (remove and replace) procedure.
A wheel alignment should be performed after the repair.
Repair time ~10 hours.
Parts, Tools, and Shop Supplies
2 x Sachs shock $82.75/each, 2 x upper spring pad (33-53-1-091-924) $3.04/each, 2 x bump stop (varies by model/year/suspension) $11.92/each, 2 x lower spring pad (33-53-1-133-671) $5.28/each, 2 x self-locking shock nut (33-52-1-137-360) $0.40/each, 6 x shock tower (collar) self-locking nut (31-33-1-092-887) $0.40/each
Not shown (easy to break plastic clips and rivets): 4 x C-pillar panel plastic clips (51-43-8-189-311) $0.45/each, 4 x rear shelf panel plastic rivets (51-11-1-964-186) $0.25/each, 7 x wheel well liner plastic rivets (51-11-8-174-185) $0.17/each
Note: The Sachs new shock came with a shock self-locking nut, but was size 17mm not 16mm as specified by BMW. This nut could be utilized successfully.
Needle nose pliers, panel remover (Lisle 35400, Door Upholstery Remover)
Middle size Philips screwdriver, small flathead screwdriver
4mm hex bit (Allen) socket 3/8″
8mm socket 1/4″, 10mm socket 1/4″, 13mm socket 1/4″, 13mm socket 3/8″, 16mm socket 1/2″ (not sown), 17mm socket 1/2″, 21mm socket 1/2″, 21mm deep socket 1/2″
1/4″ driver, 1/4″ ratchet w/ extension, 3/8″ ratchet w/ extension, 1/2″ ratchet w/ extension, 1/2″ torque wrench (27 Nm [20 ft-lb] – 127 Nm [94 ft-lb])
~1lb dead blow hammer
OEM strut spring compressor (#27036) AutoZone free w/ ~$40 deposit
Vise grip pliers
16mm combo wrench, 3/4″ combo wrench
3/4″ socket 1/2″, 1/2″ ratchet
Note: 3/4″ size is specific to indicated spring compressor
Materials Needed:
To begin, gather the following items: paper towels, brake cleaner, and glass cleaner. Additionally, you’ll need two 9½-inch-long (2×4) wood blocks, along with graphite-based grease (such as Sta-Lube, Synthetic Grease, or CRC). Don’t forget a stainless steel wire brush for the task.
Note: The 9½-inch wood block length is specifically designed for 16-inch wheels and standard suspension setups. However, if you’re working with other configurations, you’ll likely need to adjust the block length accordingly.
Not Shown: A floor pad (an old quilt) is also recommended but not pictured here.
Repair (E39 Rear Shocks Write-up):
First, fill up the fuel tank. This step is crucial because it helps achieve the “empty weight position,” which is essential for the final tightening of the shock and wheel carrier mount at the end of the repair process.
Note: Do not over fill tank as the filler hose will be manipulated during the repair procedure.
Removal of rear parcel shelf
Adjust front seats forward to facilitate more work space in rear.
Remove rear seat head rests. Pull up on middle seat headrest and remove.
Adjust side seats” headrest to highest position, then jar up headrest from bottom to remove (hand).
Remove rear C-pillar lights from trim. Pry from top (panel remover) and pull up/out.
Remove electrical connector from C-pillar lights. Pull connector strait out, no clip (needle nose pliers).
Remove C-pillar panels:
To start, pry off the top of the panel by leveraging between the panel and its mount clip using a panel remover. Note that there are two clips, one on each side of the top edge. Next, carefully pry the front edge of the panel out from under the door seal, and then pull it forward to fully remove the panel.
Remove the rear seat:
Begin by pulling up on the rear seat at each side, starting from the front or bottom, to dislodge it from the mount brackets—this can be done by hand. Once loosened, lift the seat bottom upward and pull it forward to remove it. As you do this, allow the seat belt buckles to slip downward and out of the seat access cavities.
Clean the area:
Finally, clean up underneath the seat bottom using glass cleaner and towels to ensure the space is tidy before proceeding further.
Remove screws at each side bottom seat backrest (10mm socket 1/4″ / 1/4″ ratchet).
Remove the seat backrest:
To begin, lift up on the seat backrest at each side, starting from the bottom, to dislodge it from the mount brackets—this can be done by hand. Once loosened, pull the left (driver-side) shoulder harness to the side of the seat, and then slide the seat backrest out through the left rear door.
Unfasten the shoulder harness bolts:
Next, locate the hidden bolts at the bottom or base of the shoulder harnesses. Using a 17mm socket with a 1/2″ ratchet and extension, carefully unfasten these bolts.
Important Note: Keep in mind that the middle belt strap plate mounts behind the seat buckle plate, so take care not to overlook this during reassembly.
If present, remove 3 child seat anchors. Remove bolt plastic caps (panel remover). Unscrew bolts (13mm socket 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet).
Note: Each bolt has washer, bracket, and washer/bushing, in sequential bolt insertion order.
Remove middle seat headrest mounting bracket. Unscrew 4 bolts and remove (4mm hex bit 3/8″ / 3/8″ ratchet & extension).
Start by prying off the four shelf panel rivets. First, use a flathead screwdriver or panel remover to remove the middle rivet pin. Once the pin is removed, carefully pry and twist between the car body and the shelf panel to pull out the rivet. If necessary, use the panel remover to assist in this process. Repeat these steps for each of the remaining rivets until all four are removed.
Next, focus on the shoulder harness brackets attached to the shelf. Begin by prying the bottom section outward with the panel remover, then pull downward and outward to fully detach them.
Partially pull out shelf panel, and push brackets and shoulder harness apparatus through bracket opening.
Pull out and remove rear shelf panel (hands).
Remove the speakers:
Start by removing the two mounting screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Next, disconnect the electrical connector, and then gently pull out the speaker unit.
Remove the insulation padding:
Afterward, remove the insulation padding located underneath the speakers. Then, pull up and take out the insulation surrounding the seatbelt controller. Finally, peel back the remaining insulation to fully uncover the shock tower.
Note: Remove seatbelt controller to ease insulation removal if necessary (16mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet & extension).
Disconnect the shock tower mounting: Begin by removing the center rubber cup. Then, use a 13mm socket with a 1/4″ ratchet and extension to remove the three shock mount nuts. Set these parts aside in a safe place.
Remove the spring/shock assembly from the car: First, raise the rear of the car using a jack and securely place it on jack stands. Make sure to follow the appropriate safety procedure, including chocking both sides of the front wheels to prevent the car from moving. Once the car is securely raised, remove the rear wheels to access the suspension components.
The following procedure shows the left side (driver side, E39 Rear Shocks Write-up). The right side is the same but with minor noted differences.
It’s more effective to perform the left side first since it’s illustrated with pictures.
Remove Mud Guard Screws: Start by removing the two mud guard screws located under the car using an 8mm socket and a 1/4″ driver.
Detach Wheel Well Liner Screw: Next, locate and remove the wheel well liner screw positioned under the car adjacent to the mud guard, using the same 8mm socket and 1/4″ driver.
Take Out Wheel Well Liner Mount Nuts: Finally, remove the two wheel well liner mount nuts found at each side of the shock. For this step, use a 10mm socket and a 1/4″ driver.
Pry off 3 wheel well plastic rivets at rear. Pry out middle rivet pin (flathead, panel remover), then pry/twist between bumper and liner to pull out rivet (panel remover).
Note: Third, none visible rivet, is at inside rear of fender/bumper.
Left side: Remove plastic rivet at rear frame mount under car (flathead, panel remover).
Remove wheel well liner. Pry off liner at fender rim (panel remover).
Pull liner down and out of car.
Note: Liner may also be removed from inner mount bolts and pushed up to facilitate easier removal at the fender rim.
Place vertical separator between swing arm and car body. While pressing down on wheel hub (foot/leg), wedge in separator at swing arm front of axel (wood block).
Important Notes:
- This step is designed to restrain the movement of the wheel carrier or swing arm, making it easier to create space for shock manipulation.
- Be careful not to scrape against the underbody coating during this process. If needed, shorten the wedge length to ensure smooth insertion without causing damage.
Remove the shock/wheel carrier mounting bolt: Use a 21mm socket with a 1/2″ ratchet to remove the mounting bolt. Set the bolt aside in a safe place.
Left Side Instructions:
2. Remove the fuel evaporation tank:
Gently pull the tank forward and down, then rotate it along with the hoses/cables downward and toward the rear of the vehicle.
Start by locating the fuel evaporation tank in the upper wheel well.
Use a 10mm socket with a 1/4″ driver to remove the mounting nut at the front end of the tank.
Carefully unclip any hoses or cables attached to the mounting bracket.
Right side:
Begin by detaching the fuel hoses from the wheel well mounting. Then, remove the fuel filler cap and block off the inner opening using a crumpled paper towel. Next, focus on the midway bracket (as shown in the picture) and remove its nut using a 10mm socket with a 1/4″ driver. Afterward, proceed to the top bracket of the hose and remove its nut with the same 10mm socket and 1/4″ driver.
Pull filler neck into wheel well and pull off top bracket.
Pull off midway bracket.
Fold hose down and rest hose neck on rotor.
Remove shock assembly from wheel well.
Left side: Rotate shock 180° so shock protruding bushing points to car inboard side. Move shock bottom to car inboard side, while moving shock top down and to car outboard side. Remove shock from wheel well.
Repeat procedure for second side. (E39 Rear Shocks Write-up)
Replacement of shock
Clean spring thoroughly (glass cleaner / towels). There should be no debris or grease on spring when done; clean and dry.
Coat both spring press spindle (bolt) threads with lubricant (graphite based grease). Also coat both spindle heads clasp contact surfaces.
Note: This is essential for proper function and maintenance of tool.
Clean spring press clasps (coil seats) (brake cleaner / towels).
Prepare the Shock and Spring Press:
To begin, stand the shock vertically on its end. Next, position the spring press tail clasp onto the coil at the top of the bump stop. Carefully work the clasp as far up the spring or coil as possible without jamming it against any nearby components.
Position the Spring Press Head Clasp:
Afterward, place the spring press head clasp onto the coil, positioning it five coils down the spring. While doing this, ensure the spindle remains straight along the shock’s axis to maintain proper alignment.
Secure the Clasps in Place:
Finally, tighten the spindle to lock the clasps into their positions, ensuring everything is secure before proceeding further.
Perform same as above with second spring press, but placing first spring press tail clasp 180° down coil from first spring press tail clasp.
Spring presses should be on opposite sides of spring.
Note: It’s best to have shock horizontal when performing press process (floor pad or lap).
Tighten spindles (3/4″ socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet | 3/4″ combo wrench), rotating often between spindles. Maintaining proportional spindle clasp to clasp lengths is essential to keeping a spring press from sliding. Be careful not to jar spring presses.
Press process is complete when spring has some play between upper and lower seats, ~2″ pressed.
Note: I performed the following with shock standing on end.
Break the Seized Shock Mount Nut:
To begin, use a 16mm combo wrench and vice grips to apply counter torque between the shock mount nut and the shock piston rod. This step is crucial as it helps break the nut’s seize. Once the nut is loosened, counter-hold the shock piston rod with the vice grips, and then unscrew the shock mount nut completely using the 16mm combo wrench.
Dismantle the Shock Assembly:
After loosening the nut, proceed to dismantle the shock assembly. Start by removing the bump stop and plastic boot from the spring. Push them through the lower end of the spring, using the handle of a dead blow hammer to assist in pushing the bump stop through. If necessary, collapse the rim of the plastic boot to facilitate its removal.
Clean Reusable Parts:
Next, thoroughly clean all reusable components using the appropriate cleaning materials. Ensure each part is carefully cleaned to maintain its functionality for reassembly.
Use brake cleaner for metal parts (e.g., large washer, shock mount, metal cup).
Use glass cleaner for rubber and plastic parts (e.g., plastic boot).
Wipe down the parts with towels and use a wire brush to remove any stubborn debris.
Pay special attention to cleaning the end coils of the spring to ensure they are free of dirt and grime.
Note: Above picture shows exact positioning discussed below.
Insert/twist new bump stop tapered end into plastic boot accordion indentation end, until bump stop mates with accordion indentation.
Insert bump stop / plastic boot into spring from spring upper end. Push in on bump stop (dead blow hammer handle), and collapse plastic boot rim as needed
Place new lower spring pad on new shock lower spring seat (perch).
Place new upper spring pad on upper spring seat (shock mount bottom end). Orient pad so 3 inside indentations align to 3 bolt heads.
With new shock standing on end (floor pad), assemble shock apparatus.
Place spring with boot/stop onto piston rod. Push bump stop down onto piston rod.
Start by placing the metal cup, concave side down, onto the piston rod. Next, position the shock mount on the piston rod, ensuring the spring tip is seated into the upper spring pad notch. After that, add the large washer onto the piston rod, with its concave side facing up. Finally, thread a new self-locking shock mount nut onto the piston rod, initially tightening it by hand.
Counter hold shock piston rod and tighten shock mount nut (vice grips, 16mm combo wrench).
Fully tighten, 27 Nm (20 ft-lb) (vice grips, 16mm combo wrench).
Note: It’s best to have shock horizontal when uncompressing spring (floor pad or lap).
Position the spring on the shock piston rod:
Push the spring up the shock piston rod, ensuring the spring tip is pressed securely into the notch of the upper spring pad.
Install the lower spring pad:
Place the lower spring pad onto the bottom of the spring, aligning the pad’s notch with the spring tip.
Unscrew the spring press:
Use a 3/4″ socket with a 1/2″ ratchet and a 3/4″ combo wrench to gradually unscrew the spring press. Rotate often between the spindles to maintain even pressure.
Important: Keep the spindle clasp-to-clasp lengths proportional to prevent the spring press from sliding.
Caution: Work carefully to avoid jarring the spring presses, as this could lead to instability or damage.
Note: The picture provided shows the shock after the uncompressing process is complete.
Align the Shock and Spring Components:
Once the lower spring pad and the bottom of the spring are moderately seated onto the shock’s lower seat (perch), proceed to align the short bushing end of the shock with one of the three bolts at the top of the shock mount.
Rotate the Shock for Proper Alignment:
Next, rotate the shock in the opposite direction of the spring coil’s downward spiral. This step ensures that the notch on the lower spring pad remains securely aligned with the end of the spring. Stop when perfectly aligned. If alignment position is overshot, continue turning shock and align with next bolt.
Continue Uncompressing the Spring:
To proceed, continue uncompressing the spring by rotating frequently between the spring presses. Be sure to avoid jarring them during this process, as maintaining stability is crucial.
Remove the Spring Presses:
Once the spring has fully seated and the spring presses become loose, carefully remove the spring presses from the assembly.
Adjust the Spring Position:
Next, adjust the position of the bottom coil of the spring onto the spring pad. To do this, gently tap it into place using a dead blow hammer.
Repeat for the Second Side:
After completing the first side, repeat the entire procedure for the second side to ensure both sides are properly assembled.
Installation of the Spring and Shock on the Car:
Finally, move on to the installation of the spring and shock assembly onto the car, following the appropriate steps for reassembly.
Clean (brake cleaner (metal) | glass cleaner (rubber/plastic) / towels, wire brush) following parts:
- Wheel carrier shock mount surface and mounting bolt
- Shock tower bolt/nut contact surfaces.
- Wheel well liner top side, and bottom side mount contact surfaces.
- “Wheel well inner rim and liner mounting bolts.
Insert shock assy into wheel well (reverse of removal).
Align shock bottom protruding bushing with wheel carrier shock mount.
Insert shock mount 3 bolts into shock tower holes.
Insert shock bushing into wheel carrier shock mount.
Initially screw on 3 new self-locking nuts onto shock mount at rear shelf.
Screw on shock / wheel carrier mounting bolt (hand).
Tighten bolt until snug, then loosen 1/2 turn (21mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet).
Note: Bolt should only be tightened fully with car resting on ground (later step).
Remove vertical separator between swing arm and car body. While pressing down on wheel hub (foot/leg), remove separator (wood block).
Left side:
Remount fuel evaporation tank at upper wheel well. Insert tank rear tabs into mounting slots. Insert front mounting hole onto wheel well mounting bolt. Screw on and tighten mounting nut (10mm socket 1/4″ / 1/4″ driver). Clip hoses/cables onto mounting bracket.
Right side:
Begin by inserting the fuel filler neck into the fuel compartment. Next, position the upper hose mounting bracket onto the upper mounting bolt. Finally, attach the middle hose mounting bracket by sliding it onto the middle mounting bolt.
Screw on and tighten mounting nuts onto mounting bolts.
Reinstall fuel filler cap.
Reinstall the Wheel Well Liner:
To begin, insert the liner into the wheel well and mount it onto the two bolts located on each side of the shock. Afterward, verify that the upper rim of the liner fits snugly to the outside of the shock mount.
Secure the Liner in Place:
Next, pry the outer rim of the liner into the fender rim, working gradually from the rear to the front using your hands. Once the liner is properly seated, screw on and tighten the two mud guard screws using an 8mm 1/4″ socket and 1/4″ driver. Following this, screw on and tighten the liner screw adjacent to the mud guard with the same tools.
Install Plastic Rivets:
Then, insert three wheel well plastic rivets at the rear. To do this, insert the rivet with the middle pin withdrawn, and afterward, insert the pin to secure it in place. On the left side, install a plastic rivet at the rear frame mount underneath the car.
Tighten Mounting Nuts:
Afterward, screw on and tighten the two wheel well liner mounting nuts located on each side of the shock using a 10mm 1/4″ socket and 1/4″ driver. Once everything is secured, fully tighten the three shock mount nuts (rear shelf) to 28 Nm (21 ft-lb) using a 13mm socket, 1/4″ ratchet, and extension.
Reinstall Rubber Components:
Finally, reinstall the shock mount rubber cup by twisting it into place, ensuring the tabs are oriented to fit into the corresponding body notches.
Repeat for the Second Side:
Once the first side is complete, repeat the entire procedure for the second side.
Final Steps:
After both sides are finished, install the rear wheels and lower the rear of the car, following the appropriate procedure. Subsequently, move the car approximately 20 feet to allow the rear suspension to settle properly.
With car on ground (“empty weight position”), tighten both sides” shock / wheel carrier mount bolt (21mm deep socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet).
Fully tighten, 127 Nm (94 ft-lb) (21mm deep socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ torque wrench).
Installation of rear parcel shelf
Reinstall insulation padding over shock towers. Remount insulation around seat belt controllers.
Note: Reinstall seatbelt controller(s) if previously removed (16mm socket 1/2″ / 1/2″ ratchet & extension).
Reinstall the Speakers:
To start, insert the rear tab of the speaker into the mounting slot. Then, screw on and tighten the two mounting screws using a Phillips screwdriver. Afterward, reconnect the electrical connector to restore functionality.
Reinsert the Rear Shelf Panel:
Next, carefully reinsert the rear shelf panel. Before fully seating it, pull the shoulder harness apparatuses through the shelf bracket openings. Once aligned, remount the shoulder harness shelf brackets by inserting the top portion upward and snapping the bottom into place.
Secure the Rear Shelf Panel:
After the brackets are in place, fully seat the rear shelf panel to ensure a snug fit. Then, install the four shelf panel plastic rivets. To do this, insert each rivet with the middle pin withdrawn, and afterward, insert the pin to secure it.
Reinstall Child Seat Anchors:
Following this, reinstall the child seat anchors by screwing on and tightening the bolts in sequential order: washer, mount clip, and washer/bushing. Use a 13mm socket with a 3/8″ ratchet for this step. Once tightened, reinstall the bolt caps to complete the process.
Reinstall the Middle Seat Headrest Mounting Bracket:
Next, reinstall the middle seat headrest mounting bracket. Screw on and tighten the four bolts using a 4mm hex bit with a 3/8″ ratchet and extension.
Reinstall Shoulder Harness Belt Bases:
Afterward, reinstall the shoulder harness belt bases. Begin by placing the metal plate at the mount, then install the bolt using a 17mm socket with a 1/2″ ratchet.
Important Note:
Finally, remember that the middle belt plate mounts behind the seat buckle plate, so ensure proper alignment during installation.
Reinstall seat backrest. Working from left side (driver side), insert backrest behind middle and right shoulder harnesses, then bring left shoulder harness around to front of backrest.
Insert 2 hooks at each seat into their mounting brackets.
Install screw at each backrest side bottom (10mm socket 1/4″ / 1/4″ ratchet).
Reinstall seat bottom. Raise seat front to angle in seat rear. Pull left seat buckle (on strap) up onto seat. Bring middle and right seat buckles up through designated seat access cavities.
Press seat to rear, then press down at side seat fronts to lock into mounting brackets.
Reinstall C-pillar panels. Wedge panel into mounting position, inserting rear top edge under hooks along rear window.
Press on panel top at each end to mount clips.
Pry door seal onto panel front edge (fingers).
Reinstall C-pillar lights. Reconnect electrical connector.
Insert bottom into panel, then snap in at top.
Reinstall rear seat headrests. Middle seat goes in directly.
Side seats, first insert mounting posts fully into headrests, then mount into position.
A wheel alignment should be performed after the repair.
To my mom, may she always be blessed.
Rajaie (Palestinian)
E39 Rear Shocks Write-up.
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